mooney wet wing advice

J

jimjr

Guest
I have a Mooney m20F and one tank is wheeping. I have read several posts here about taking the top panel of and cleaning the tank and resealing and waiting for it to dry before refilling. What type of cleaner and product do you use for this? My wing does not wheep bad and looks like a patch would work with out whole strip and reseal. Thanks Jim
 
Jim, I did this four times to my F model before having it completely strip resealed. Dont obther to patch it, it'll just keep leaking. Your sealant has reached TBO.
 
I had the same experience and Bruce. Fortunately (I guess) the previous owner ate the bill for a number of patch attempts and lowered the price accordingly when they did not work. It's like trying to plug a leaky roof with chewing gum.
 
As already said, patching seldom gets more than a few months unless the plane has a recent reseal. Around $7000 should do both at Wilmar Aviation.
 
I agree with the other guys. Especially if you are 10-15 years past a reseal job, you are more than likely going to need a major repair.

As a first step, I would have the plane looked at by one of the handful of shops that specializes in Mooney tank leaks. Let us know where you are, and we can suggest one.

Jon
 
I have a Mooney m20F and one tank is wheeping. I have read several posts here about taking the top panel of and cleaning the tank and resealing and waiting for it to dry before refilling. What type of cleaner and product do you use for this? My wing does not wheep bad and looks like a patch would work with out whole strip and reseal. Thanks Jim
The Mooney maintenance manual suggests using a mechanical scraping device fashioned from plexiglass sheet. There is/was someone out there offering a solvent recirculating system (pumped/sprayed solvent in fuel bay until sealant was removed), but I've heard it is murder on the aircraft paint on the lower wing and should only be used if a re-paint is imminent. IIRC, the sealant is actually three sealants, each applied successively (might be two, too lazy to check the manual). Regarding the inspection panels, you will need to remove all of them (top and bottom) in order to access and remove all sealant in the tank. Stripping the sealant is a nasty, labor intensive, minor injury inducing (lacerations on arms and hands) job that any A&P will be glad to let you do; doing so will save you ~10-20 hours labor charges per tank. IIRC, the last time I checked, the sealant required for one tank was ~$800 and takes about another 8 hours per tank to apply. IOW, you can have one tank resealed for ~$1500 if you do the dirty work and then have a good shop apply the sealant and close the tanks (that sequence keeps it all nice and legal) or you can pay $3500/tank to have one of the "name" shops do the work for you. I've done both in the past, but I'd opt for the first (cheaper) answer if I had it to do again. FWIW, the "name" shop was Top Gun, Stockton, CA, and they did a great job, but IME the extran $2k per tank did not net any increased tank seal integrity, sealant longevity, warranty coverage, etc. YMMV; others have had contradictory experiences.
 
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