Metallic heat tape for oil cooler?

RyanB

RyanB

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Ryan
The O360 in the Archer runs cool. Oil temperatures have a difficult time breaking 150F even in the middle of the summer. I can’t seem to find the winterization plate online, unless I go through Piper and pay an absurd cost for a piece of aluminum. I’ve heard some folks use metallic heat tape and cover up part of their oil cooler to help bring temps up. Is there anything I should know before doing this?

Instead of putting this winterization plate on, I’d place the metallic tape there instead.

1421D1E4-A4A3-4A6B-B104-7CF26D99FF8B.jpeg

Thoughts?
 
Bell206 said:
I'm not a fan of any tape in the engine compartment in most cases.
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Thanks for the advice, this was my thought as well, but wasn’t sure how common it was.
 
RyanB said:
Oil temperatures have a difficult time breaking 150F even in the middle of the summer.
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Wouldn't "too cold even in the middle of summer" be indicative of a gauge, sensor and/or Vernatherm problem?
 
asicer said:
Wouldn't "too cold even in the middle of summer" be indicative of a gauge, sensor and/or Vernatherm problem?
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I got my Archer engine back this summer after an overhaul, and had a similar issue. The temperature never got above 150-160 C, but always made 180 C before the overhaul. I dropped the plane down to my mechanic a week ago and he texted me yesterday that it seemed to be an issue with the thermostatic valve which will need to be replaced.
 
Plate is easy to fabricate. Having said that, 150 is very cool suggesting another issue as others have mentioned.
 
RyanB said:
Also what I’m wondering…
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If it is a sensor, gauge and/or Vernatherm problem, I would imagine that blocking off the oil cooler would do a lot more harm than good.
 
Ryan, I'd be suspicious of that gauge reading. Might want to pull the sender and check its resistance vs the (probably) published data using boiling water and a multi-meter.

But if you need a plate, it looks like something I could probably make you in 15 minutes if you wanted to drop by VPC one day. Alternately, HVAC tape works just fine for that application.
 
kyleb said:
Ryan, I'd be suspicious of that gauge reading. Might want to pull the sender and check its resistance vs the (probably) published data using boiling water and a multi-meter.

But if you need a plate, it looks like something I could probably make you in 15 minutes if you wanted to drop by VPC one day. Alternately, HVAC tape works just fine for that application.
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Thanks, Kyle, I might need to give that a shot.

Also, thanks for the offer, I will certainly keep you updated!
 
I used standard fabric duct tape for years but it does leave some residue. Not a big deal as it hardens and is easy to remove. Aluminum tape works best.

Winter covers make CHT go up. I won’t use them. Tape is standard practice in AK.
 
I use tape too, ordinary aluminum duct tape. I looked at the antisplat shutter, I like the idea of being able to adjust it in flight, but it would require some surgery to the baffles.
 
Common box store aluminum tape is pretty cheesy. Shurtape UL Listed HVAC Tape is thicker and has better adhesion. It's available at the box stores next to the cheap stuff.
 
obw said:
The temperature never got above 150-160 C, but always made 180 C before the overhaul.
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C as in Celsius? I hope you mean Fahrenheit! 180 C = 356 degrees F! :hairraise:
 
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RyanB said:
Thanks for the advice, this was my thought as well, but wasn’t sure how common it was.
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It is VERY common. The Big Box Hardware store aluminum foil tape works well. Sticks well and leaves no residue. The aluminum foil tape is NOT like fabric duct tape which leaves a terrible residue.
Just put it on the high pressure side.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-...Purpose-HVAC-Foil-Duct-Tape-1541239/100030120

It also works well placed on the underside of the engine cowling where the soft baffling rubs. Over time you may notice vibration of the soft baffling has worn through the zinc chromate primer. Use this foil tape to protect your VERY expensive cowling from soft baffling grit sanding.
 
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