Learn me about tractors

docmirror said:
. I'm gonna look at the Ford 420 but it has a broken 3pt hitch which is chained up. He thinks it's an o-ring and I say 'fat chance'. More likely it will be the most expensive element to the 3pt or they would have tossed an o-ring in the circuit and solved that. The Ford is willing to negotiate, but it's also gonna need rear tires fairly soon and that about $1000 or more.
Click to expand...

Could be a busted lift piston ring, or it could be a standpipe o-ring, or a cracked standpipe. Could be a stuck relief valve. Could be a cracked top cover. Ford and Massey have a lot in common.

The thing here is to check to see if the pump is any good. There should be a tap somewhere on the trans cover where you can attach a pressure guage to see if there' any output. Wait, this has a loader right? If there's no aux pump, the same pump will lift the three point. If the loader works good when warmed up, it's probably no big deal. There should be an inspection cover somewhere on he side where you can observe if there's hydro oil leaking ( spraying) down from the top cover. If the pump is good, and the cover's not cracked, the repair should be pretty cheap, if you turn your own wrenches.

Course, could be something as silly as low hydro oil. The good thing about the Fords are hey are common as dirt, and used parts abound.
 
Last edited:
What size are the tires? I just got 2 nearly new 12.5-32 's for $600 at a farm auction. You can save a bunch of money if you're willing to bide your time and hunt around a lil' bit.
 
Chip Sylverne said:
Could be a busted lift piston ring, or it could be a standpipe o-ring, or a cracked standpipe. Could be a stuck relief valve. Could be a cracked top cover. Ford and Massey have a lot in common.

The thing here is to check to see if the pump is any good. There should be a tap somewhere on the trans cover where you can attach a pressure guage to see if there' any output. Wait, this has a loader right? If there's no aux pump, the same pump will lift the three point. If the loader works good when warmed up, it's probably no big deal. There should be an inspection cover somewhere on he side where you can observe if there's hydro oil leaking ( spraying) down from the top cover. If the pump is good, and the cover's not cracked, the repair should be pretty cheap, if you turn your own wrenches.

Course, could be something as silly as low hydro oil. The good thing about the Fords are hey are common as dirt, and used parts abound.
Click to expand...

I am going to sound so negative with this comment, but when something doesn't work its NEVER something simple or the owner would have already fixed it. Every time I look at something that just needs.... It really needs the most expensive part on the tractor, the owner already found this out, the mechanic told him the machine wasn't worth fixing, so he's now he's selling it to some sucker. If he has high morals, he might just take it to auction.:wink2:
 
Ok, here's what you want to look for:

Starts easy cold. No raps or untoward noises from the engine. A little piston slap from a diesel is OK when cold. Take off the oil filler and put your hand over the tube and feel for blowby. A little is ok, a lot isn't. Smoke from the filler? Shut it down and go home. Pull the rad cap to make sure there's no bubbles.

While it's warming, grab the top of each rear tire and try to shake them back and forth toward the seat. Any movement at all means $ for worn planetary bearings or axle bearings. Check the lube in the planetaries. Many have been run dry for years. Listen for whines when moving, or knocks going around sharp corners coming from the axles. Knocks means immediate work. Bad brakes are no big deal,but a clank when you hit the brakes means some worn, but cheap, parts inside the axle trumpet.

Once warm, work the hydraulics. Hard if you can. Most hydro's work well when cold, warn pumps and such show themselves when the oil is warm. Lift the front of the tractor with the bucket, shake the front wheels to check for warn bearings, tie rod ends and king pin bearings. Grab the front axle by one side and try to move it front to back to check or a warn center pivot bushing. Feel where the clutch grabs. Too high or too low could mean adjustment or wear.
A greasy machine is generally a healthy machine.
 
Alexb2000 said:
I am going to sound so negative with this comment, but when something doesn't work its NEVER something simple or the owner would have already fixed it. Every time I look at something that just needs.... It really needs the most expensive part on the tractor, the owner already found this out, the mechanic told him the machine wasn't worth fixing, so he's now he's selling it to some sucker. If he has high morals, he might just take it to auction.:wink2:
Click to expand...

I bought a skidsteer at auction that was making a godawful noise from the engine when it was running. Buyers ran from it. Got it for nearly nada. Turned out to be a loose bracket. Another one everything worked and sounded great, but had big cracks on the lift frame that were only obvious if you know where to look. Went for big money.

Ya gotta know how to read the signs.
 
I bought this tractor for $2,000. Found the snowblower for about $200 on craigslist, I think the tire chains(must have for snow work, makes a HUGE difference) for around another $200
It's a Ferguson(before they were Massey-Ferguson) TO-30, basically just like an 8n Ford. Most of the parts interchange.

iphone160.jpg


It's old, I'm always fixing it, no power steering, no live hydraulics(except the loader which has an auxiliary pump), no live PTO.

I know how to fix it though and I don't use it everyday and it was cheap. A new tractor costs big money and I only use this for snow removal, garden tilling, and occasional special chores and projects through the year.

I'd love to have 4wd, I'd love to not fix it all the time, I'd love a more modern tractor with a higher lift capacity on the 3pt or loader(both are around 800#). But, again it's cheap and it gets the job done. Yeah I buy a lot of parts, it's still far cheaper than the alternative for my needs.

blowin.jpg
 
Chip Sylverne said:
I bought a skidsteer at auction that was making a godawful noise from the engine when it was running. Buyers ran from it. Got it for nearly nada. Turned out to be a loose bracket.
Click to expand...

I know a lot of people with stories like that, I just don't have one, yet.:)
 
Alexb2000 said:
I am going to sound so negative with this comment, but when something doesn't work its NEVER something simple or the owner would have already fixed it. Every time I look at something that just needs.... It really needs the most expensive part on the tractor, the owner already found this out, the mechanic told him the machine wasn't worth fixing, so he's now he's selling it to some sucker. If he has high morals, he might just take it to auction.:wink2:
Click to expand...

Negative. I bought a Bobcat 873 at an auction that leaked hydraulic oil at the rate of 5 gallons in 15 mins for $3,500. Everybody laughed at the price. It was a $20 hose. It cost me $30 in quarters to clean it up, and $259 for a seat. It has run fine ever since, that was 12 years ago. Worth $12k today, and I would not sell it for that on a dare. :no:

Do your homework at auctions, and don't listen to the competition. ;)
 
Last edited:
Geico266 said:
Negative. I bought a Bobcat 873 at an auction that leaked hydraulic oil at the rate of 5 gallons in 15 mins for $3,500. Everybody laughed at the price. It was a $20 hose. It cost me $30 in quarters to clean it up, and $259 for a seat. It has run fine ever since, that was 12 years ago. Worth $12k today, and I would not sell it for that on a dare. :no:

Do your homework at auctions, and don't listen to the competition. ;)
Click to expand...

Excellent point indeed Geico. If you have some mechanical abilities or shoot, even a legit mechanic, you can really steal one of the old tractors and make it a fine working machine.

To the OP I ask you this. Can you split a tractor? If so you can pretty much conduct most major repairs on your own.
 
LJS1993 said:
Excellent point indeed Geico. If you have some mechanical abilities or shoot, even a legit mechanic, you can really steal one of the old tractors and make it a fine working machine.

To the OP I ask you this. Can you split a tractor? If so you can pretty much conduct most major repairs on your own.
Click to expand...

Sure, he lives in Texas, you can buy Primacord in Texas...:rofl:
 
LJS1993 said:
Excellent point indeed Geico. If you have some mechanical abilities or shoot, even a legit mechanic, you can really steal one of the old tractors and make it a fine working machine.

To the OP I ask you this. Can you split a tractor? If so you can pretty much conduct most major repairs on your own.
Click to expand...

Sure, I can split one. It's messy, and heavy, and a serious pain in the rear but I can do the work. the deal is, I don't want to spend a wknd splitting a tractor and finding out whats wrong, and then fixing and putting it all back.

We've decided pretty much that a $3500 tractor is no kind of tractor that I want to do anything with. I'm either gonna rent for my bldg work and loading then just use my lawn tractor on the grass or I'm gonna up the budget to $7-9k.

This just popped up. I like turf tires.

http://waco.craigslist.org/for/4103423437.html
 
Last edited:
I'd love to find one of those deals where it's an estate sale, and I get a hardly used MF 65HP tractor with a loader, 3pt and PTO for $3000, and it needs a $40 part and will run on diesel for centuries with only 10 min of mx every three years. We all want to find that deal but they just don't come up very often, and when they do, there's lots of brokers hunting around for the same deal so they can flip them. I know a broker here in TX that helped with the investigation on the Fergie that would grab it up in a minute for $1800, put some paint on it, and list it for $3300 and sell for $3k. It's the market, and good deals don't come along regularly.

I'll keep my eye peeled, but I'm thinking I'll just rent for now, and use my mower as is.
 
Don't rule out the Kubotas if you find the right deal. I've run tractors my whole life and one of my favorites is the little 35hp 4wd Kubota I have now. The 4wd will substitute for a lot of hp.
 
timwinters said:
you forgot to mention the propane tank converted into a field roller...propane tanks make the BEST rollers.



When you sparkle as much as Diz...jewelry not required.
Click to expand...

Roller, yep forgot that one. That was cheap though, tank was $100, a friend welded it all together as a donation for the airport.

Diz is gonna luv ya for the sparkle comment:yes:

How was the trip?
 
Me too.

teethdoc said:
Don't rule out the Kubotas if you find the right deal. I've run tractors my whole life and one of my favorites is the little 35hp 4wd Kubota I have now. The 4wd will substitute for a lot of hp.
Click to expand...
 
somorris said:
Good grief! What's going on?
Click to expand...

Up here in Mich. a 4020 is at least 7k ,do a refurb with new paint 10K

1966 -4020 diesel, wide front with hydro shift is my all time favorite probably best looking Deere ever built. Absolute classic:yes:
 
el con said:
Up here in Mich. a 4020 is at least 7k ,do a refurb with new paint 10K

1966 -4020 diesel, wide front with hydro shift is my all time favorite probably best looking Deere ever built. Absolute classic:yes:
Click to expand...

Useless machine in TX unless all you need is a part time utility tractor. For the work a 4020 is meant for, you need a cab in TX.
 
Would love AC, but real world, I'm just gonna sweat in summer. For my price, you ain't gonna get the world. I'll put a parasol on if it doesn't come with one.
 
docmirror said:
Would love AC, but real world, I'm just gonna sweat in summer. For my price, you ain't gonna get the world. I'll put a parasol on if it doesn't come with one.
Click to expand...

A/C is great if you're running back and forth in a field all day. For your purposes, you'll be on and off the tractor too much. I actually don't want a cab for that kind of work.
 
teethdoc said:
Don't rule out the Kubotas if you find the right deal. I've run tractors my whole life and one of my favorites is the little 35hp 4wd Kubota I have now. The 4wd will substitute for a lot of hp.
Click to expand...

I have a 35hp Bobcat tractor with 4wd. Fun machine.
 
No way OP is going to get what he wants for $3500.

Farm iron is bringing top dollar these days.
 
Henning said:
Yep, that's the problem with all the big garden tractors, it's not really made to run a bush hog, it doesn't have the balls. What you can do is get a mower deck and adapt a PTO drive to it.
Click to expand...

I have a pto 3 speed but only 7/8" one.... I hear some cat 1 implements will fit.
 
Henning said:
Yep, there are three point adapters and couplers, but there just is no replacement for horsepower.
Click to expand...


about 8 years back I had a 2 cyl Yannar 2wd and 4' bush hog and it worked just fine for mowing 14" tall grass/weeds in my 4 acre orchard when I let it get behind. That is all I need, plus maybe removing roots from the lagoon every few years...possibly a small post hole digger. Now I got a 19hp should be better, its 4wd but I do not really need that. It would be handing to find a 400 lb 30-36" loader for it.... I'd be happy, I already have a tiller on it.
 
Tony_Scarpelli said:
about 8 years back I had a 2 cyl Yannar 2wd and 4' bush hog and it worked just fine for mowing 14" tall grass/weeds in my 4 acre orchard when I let it get behind. That is all I need, plus maybe removing roots from the lagoon every few years...possibly a small post hole digger. Now I got a 19hp should be better, its 4wd but I do not really need that. It would be handing to find a 400 lb 30-36" loader for it.... I'd be happy, I already have a tiller on it.
Click to expand...

You can build your own implements, loaders are pretty simple really, bush hog isn't particularly difficult either. All the components are available for sale or salvage, a cutoff saw, a welder and a drill and you can make most things you need.
 
Last edited:
Get a tractor and an airplane.

I like the heck out of our NH DX55 with ESS shuttle shift. It was ten times as much as the OP wants to spend, but hey, you get what you pay for.

 
Henning said:
Useless machine in TX unless all you need is a part time utility tractor. For the work a 4020 is meant for, you need a cab in TX.
Click to expand...

You're correct, then again I don't live in Tx. or plan on it.
I'm an old time farm boy, like to hear whats going on behind the tractor like bearing whining ,belts screeching , metal grinding, things breaking etc. First Case I ran with a cab I didn't like.(the cab)
Open tractors are cold in the winter/hot in summer for sure, but if I wanted to be in a cab I'd be a trucker:wink2:
Like airplanes, there is never one tractor that will do everything well.
But the 4020 diesel IMHO is close, what are they 80-90 hp big enough to plow, small enough to mow. Classic JD design, better looking than any newer, and don't need to hook up a computer to trouble shoot.
 
el con said:
Like airplanes, there is never one tractor that will do everything well.
But the 4020 diesel IMHO is close, what are they 80-90 hp big enough to plow, small enough to mow. Classic JD design, better looking than any newer, and don't need to hook up a computer to trouble shoot.
Click to expand...

Looks like if I triple my 'hard' budget, I could get what I need.

http://www.tractorhouse.com/listingsdetail/detail.aspx?OHID=7556965

:D

This one has a cab, wonder if it has AC? Don't see a pump, so prolly not. Still could be added I guess. OK isn't that far off.

http://www.tractorhouse.com/listingsdetail/detail.aspx?OHID=8024389
 
Last edited:
Alexb2000 said:
Wow, prices are straight crazy for tractors right now.

If farmlands worth $10K an acre then a 50 year old JD should be worth $10K also.
Click to expand...

my buddy over in Cisco is in the tractor biz. He just bought another airplane, so I guess things are doing well. I think I'll just borrow one of his units for a few days.
 
Something I worry about with the compacts is that they're so small/light. Tractors are for pushing and pulling and if you don't have the weight and can't get the power to the ground, it's no good.

I went to a Mahindra dealer and tried a 3516 at the end of last winter. They had a snow pile out back they let me push around.. I wasn't too impressed with it. My little 2wd ferguson can outdo it as long as it had it's chains on. Maybe with weight and chains the 3516 woulda done bettter? I don't know.

They had a bigger tractor there, a 5035. It definitely did the job but it was bigger, more expensive... almost seemed like overkill for me.

Then I decided to buy an airplane so I'm still running with my ancient Ferguson.
 
cowman said:
Something I worry about with the compacts is that they're so small/light. Tractors are for pushing and pulling and if you don't have the weight and can't get the power to the ground, it's no good.

I went to a Mahindra dealer and tried a 3516 at the end of last winter. They had a snow pile out back they let me push around.. I wasn't too impressed with it. My little 2wd ferguson can outdo it as long as it had it's chains on. Maybe with weight and chains the 3516 woulda done bettter? I don't know.

They had a bigger tractor there, a 5035. It definitely did the job but it was bigger, more expensive... almost seemed like overkill for me.

Then I decided to buy an airplane so I'm still running with my ancient Ferguson.
Click to expand...

4wd makes up for a lot of weight issues, but you make a good point. Tractors aren't just about pulling and pushing, they're about getting pushed. Once those 2 big tires lose grip, you've got a real situation on your hands. You haven't really had your life pass before your eyes until you get pushed down a hill by a running baler followed by a loaded hay wagon.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top