How to mount new PTT on an old yoke...??

DKirkpatrick

Pre-takeoff checklist
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DKirkpatrick
Hello. Need to mount (and drill) for mounting a PTT switch on the yoke of a 1963 C-172D... has the original yoke with the bar across the top. I don't want to change the yoke - I like it... but can it be drilled to add a plate somehow to mount the switch? If anybody's got a picture of a nice installation like this, it'd help alot. The yoke's in great shape, recently refinished.
what's the best way to do this?
Would appreciate the coaching from someone who'e been there and done that.
thanks
dan
 
Doesn’t work well. Have a david Clark and it slides around. Looking for something more permanent
Thanks though
 
http://www.cessna172club.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=361183
From this post:
I have an early model 172 that has a different style yoke. Here is what we did for the push to talk. Made a plate to hold the PTT button, then drilled and tapped two holes on the back on the yoke and put the plate on with screws.

6fV4D2k.jpg
 
Put an adel clamp around the yoke where you desire the switch. Enlarge the hole to accept your spst ptt switch in place of the clamping screw. Solder your cable to the switch, use shrink tubing, strain relief, etc.
 
yep that's a gorgeous panel. Thanks for the coaching on how to mount this button.
Wondering...?? Anyone know if there's some kind of super duper glue that I could mount the bracket to the yoke with, so I don't have to drill it? seems like there ought to be some kind of epoxy glue that would hold... maybe jb weld??
thanks
 
yep that's a gorgeous panel. Thanks for the coaching on how to mount this button.
Wondering...?? Anyone know if there's some kind of super duper glue that I could mount the bracket to the yoke with, so I don't have to drill it? seems like there ought to be some kind of epoxy glue that would hold... maybe jb weld??
thanks
E6000 adhesive is amazing stuff.
 
3M Fast Cure 4200 is a durable, high strength, one part polyurethane adhesive/caulk that is tack free in one hour and cures in 24 hours. It'll provide a stable bond that won't fail.

You could make a bracket like that shown in post #4, and bond it to the back of the yoke.

Unlike epoxies and cyanoacrylates, it is also removeable, and won't damage the bonded parts. Just $12.49 from Academy Sports & Outdoors, also stocked by most Ace Hardware stores.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40066971/

https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/3m-marine-adhesive-sealant-fast-cure-4200

755233.jpg
 
Thank you for your information and response. This sounds great and keeps me from needlessly drilling into a 60 year old yoke. Will give this a shot.
Really helpful.
Dan
 
I get leather yoke covers with PTT switches already built in. Makes the yokes look better and work great.
 
3M Fast Cure 4200 is a durable, high strength, one part polyurethane adhesive/caulk that is tack free in one hour and cures in 24 hours. It'll provide a stable bond that won't fail.

You could make a bracket like that shown in post #4, and bond it to the back of the yoke.

Unlike epoxies and cyanoacrylates, it is also removeable, and won't damage the bonded parts. Just $12.49 from Academy Sports & Outdoors, also stocked by most Ace Hardware stores.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40066971/

https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/3m-marine-adhesive-sealant-fast-cure-4200

755233.jpg
3M 5200 is even stronger and more permanent if you need even more bond (but still a rubbery adhesive that can be cut or scraped off).
 
3M 5200 is even stronger and more permanent if you need even more bond (but still a rubbery adhesive that can be cut or scraped off).

3M 5200 is not removable. It is meant to be used for permanent fixture of things like through hull fittings, ladders, swimsteps, and even outboard motor jackplates. Once it's applied, it is hell breaking the bond.

From the 3M webpage:

3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 is a one-component, high-strength, moisture-curing, gap-filling polyurethane for permanent bonding of wood, gelcoat and fiberglass. It cures to form a firm, rubbery, waterproof seal on joints and boat hardware, above and below the waterline. 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 is the most trusted sealant in the industry for permanent, high strength bonding..
 
3M 5200 is not removable. It is meant to be used for permanent fixture of things like through hull fittings, ladders, swimsteps, and even outboard motor jackplates. Once it's applied, it is hell breaking the bond.

From the 3M webpage:

3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 is a one-component, high-strength, moisture-curing, gap-filling polyurethane for permanent bonding of wood, gelcoat and fiberglass. It cures to form a firm, rubbery, waterproof seal on joints and boat hardware, above and below the waterline. This product has been trusted throughout the marine industry for over 50 years.
Yes, exactly why I said "and more permanent".

Now try to argue that 5200 is not a "rubbery adhesive that can be cut or scrapped off". It is quite difficult breaking the bond of 4200 as well, after which, you have to "cut and scrape" the adhesive off both surfaces.
 
Yes, exactly why I said "and more permanent".

Now try to argue that 5200 is not a "rubbery adhesive that can be cut or scrapped off". It is quite difficult breaking the bond of 4200 as well, after which, you have to "cut and scrape" the adhesive off both surfaces.

The manufacturer of the product says it's not removable. My experience with 5200 agrees with that characterization. Removing 4200 is much simpler.

Besides that, why would a PTT switch need to use 5200? It's something that weighs a few grams.
 
The manufacturer of the product says it's not removable. My experience with 5200 agrees with that characterization. Removing 4200 is much simpler.

Besides that, why would a PTT switch need to use 5200? It's something that weighs a few grams.
Everything is removable. Epoxy is removable, welding is removable, tape is removable. If I use 5200 to install something on a boat, does that mean that I can never ever remove it? I just have to throw out the boat if I want to change it?

Do you think that epoxy manufacturers say “epoxy is removable”? No. But I also know that a gentle heating to 180(ish) degrees turns epoxy soft and rubbery and allows it to be removed. So which is it in your world?
 
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