headset cord insulation repair

Leo Langston

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llangston1
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to repair or replace the black rubber insulation along a head set cord? Somehow the insulation has just cracked and pealed off the entire length of the cord. The metal shielding wrap is still in place, just little to no insulation. I can't use shrink wrap since I can't slide that over the large 9V battery box that is on that cord. I could wrap it with black electrical tape but that might lead to a sticky mess after it gets hot. I hate to throw it away since it still works.
 
i think it is time for a new headset try ebay or try poa classified pigpen has some nice stuff
 
How about just replacing the cord?
 
Send it back to the manufacturer for repair. Some do it for free (like Bose).
 
bose or dc cords dont usually fail as described.and bose does NOTHING for free ,they s..k
 
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Bose fixed my worn out ear seals for free. Bose is good stuff, good company, albeit expensive.

Ill admit, expecting free for a repair is a bit much. You MIGHT get it. Skyox repaired my ox tank regulator for free. So it happens. Perhaps you will have to pay for it. Not suprising if you do. But I suspect the manufacturer can repair them if anyone can.

An avionics shope might be able to repair them. Worth asking.
 
Not sure how old your headset is, but what you're seeing could arguably be called a manufacturing defect.

This is likely a knit/weld line failure that occurred due to set up issues during the cable insulator extrusion process. The flow front of material around the extrusion die was not homogeneous, and a weak point was generated that ran the length of the cable run. They should not fail this way.

Good luck explaining that to a customer service rep, though!

Extrusion-groupe.jpg

2015%2002%20optimizing%20weld%20lines%2001.jpg
 
Yea right! This headset is probably vintage 2003 soncenit was my son's first headset when he started flying. Some sort of inexpensive generic black David Clake clone.
 
Yea right! This headset is probably vintage 2003 soncenit was my son's first headset when he started flying. Some sort of inexpensive generic black David Clake clone.
Answers that. Solder in a new cord for a few bucks and be done with it.
 
So where would I find a new cord?
Any stereo repair shop, custom audio, ham radio club, or most computer repair shops could easily hack something together using your connectors, assorted cable in stock, and a bit of shrink tubing. eBay and many aviation shops sell cable sets, but it sounds like you have an ANR box on yours which would be a little harder to match.

ASA is still in business, and might be more than happy to sell you the parts if you call.

Personally, I would slice it open, count wires, and pull some similar shielded audio cable from some old thing in the basement, order on Amazon, or Fleabay, but that's just me.
 
I will probably do that. I am just getting back into flying assuming the BasicMed process works and will need a cheap HS to start out with. Afterwards I can get something a little better
 
Thx I will look at these and maybe get in touch with ASA as well.
 
A high quality electrical tape, like 3M, should not turn into a mess. If you wanted, you could then "paint" over it with Plasti-Dip or some other similar liquid rubber material.

If it's a spare or you always have a spare, I'd do it. If it was my primary and I had no spare, I wouldn't cheap out, I'd just buy a new headset.
 
Ilome the plasti dip idea. Might be worth a try and if I screw it up then try a replacement cord. I dont want to spend any more $$ before I know that I can pass the new medical process.
 
Ilome the plasti dip idea. Might be worth a try and if I screw it up then try a replacement cord. I dont want to spend any more $$ before I know that I can pass the new medical process.
If you do decide to replace your headset, start looking on EBay first. I see David Clarks routinely go for $50-$150 for the lower end models and plenty of the nicer models going for half price.
 
Everything can be fixed with either WD-40 or duct tape. The latter seems appropriate here.
 
Cut the plug off, install heat shrink and new plug?
 
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