Hangar rash avoidance...

cowman

cowman

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So I'm moving soon and right now if I want my airplane hangared, and I do, my only option within a reasonable driving distance is going to be a pretty crummy hangar that my airplane barely fits into.

I haven't flown the plane in to try it yet, but I measured and it looks like I've only got about 1' clearance on either side of the wing :eek:

Worse the path leading into it is broken and VERY uneven pavement.

I guess I can see if I can paint some tracks where the wheels go, maybe put some mirrors or something on the walls? Lookin for ideas...
 
6" clearance on each wingtip. (1' combined, or 1 ft on each side?) I'd only do that if I planned to put it in the hangar one time, and one time only. Otherwise, there are no good solutions to that problem.
 
cowman said:
So I'm moving soon and right now if I want my airplane hangared, and I do, my only option within a reasonable driving distance is going to be a pretty crummy hangar that my airplane barely fits into.

I haven't flown the plane in to try it yet, but I measured and it looks like I've only got about 1' clearance on either side of the wing :eek:

Worse the path leading into it is broken and VERY uneven pavement.

I guess I can see if I can paint some tracks where the wheels go, maybe put some mirrors or something on the walls? Lookin for ideas...
Click to expand...

Painting lines is the fastest and safest way....

There is a TBM700 here in the Tee hangars.... He has 2" clearance on each wingtip... As careful as he is.. He has had to replace the wingtip strobe lights more then once...:yikes::yikes::sad:
 
Gerhardt said:
6" clearance on each wingtip. (1' combined, or 1 ft on each side?) I'd only do that if I planned to put it in the hangar one time, and one time only. Otherwise, there are no good solutions to that problem.
Click to expand...

I think 1' on each side... it was just a rough measure with measuring tape with me holding one end and someone else walking to either side. might be an inch or two off.
 
Now I have to ask what plane are you putting in there? A 172 could be done w/ painted lines. Fill in any uneven areas as much as possible. I'm assuming you're using a tow bar, so as long as you stay on the lines you should be golden.
 
1' on each side? What are you going to do with all the extra room?

I put duct tape down along the path of the main gear. That keeps me within a few inches. I just have to make sure the ladder is not sticking out beyond the cabinet it leans against.
 
Gerhardt said:
Now I have to ask what plane are you putting in there? A 172 could be done w/ painted lines. Fill in any uneven areas as much as possible. I'm assuming you're using a tow bar, so as long as you stay on the lines you should be golden.
Click to expand...

It's an Archer II... low wing. Yeah using a tow bar.
 
Paint lines and right before you get the wings in stop and look at both sides to make sure you have clearance. Pretty simple....
I managed to put my Cub and Christen Eagle in a T hangar without bumping anything. Just don't rush!
 
I was in a hangar for several months with 18" on each wingtip. Lines on the ground already didn't match my mains, but did match the nose wheel.

One advantage us low wing guys have: hang something on the ceiling, right in the exact center. AIM the tail at the hanging thing, and put the nose wheel on the center stripe.

The first few times, go slow and have someone on the wingtips until you get comfortable with it. Once or twice a week, not once a month, or you'll never adjust.
 
Hank S said:
I was in a hangar for several months with 18" on each wingtip. Lines on the ground already didn't match my mains, but did match the nose wheel.

One advantage us low wing guys have: hang something on the ceiling, right in the exact center. AIM the tail at the hanging thing, and put the nose wheel on the center stripe.

The first few times, go slow and have someone on the wingtips until you get comfortable with it. Once or twice a week, not once a month, or you'll never adjust.
Click to expand...

Agreed.... There are two planes in my T hangar... I do have to position my three blade prop just right so his left wing can sneak past but they both fit...
 
Hank S said:
One advantage us low wing guys have: hang something on the ceiling, right in the exact center. AIM the tail at the hanging thing, and put the nose wheel on the center stripe.
Click to expand...


I sit on an electric scooter and push my high wing in the hangar with simply by looking at where the vertical stabilizer is in reference to the back wall in the T hangar. :dunno: No stripes on the ground. Nothing hanging from the ceiling.

 
I have lines on the floor and a line on the back of the hangar that I use to center the tail.

You may want to add some padding to the areas of the hangar where the wing could contact the hangar to minimize the damage just in case you get off of center.
 
cowman said:
So I'm moving soon and right now if I want my airplane hangared, and I do, my only option within a reasonable driving distance is going to be a pretty crummy hangar that my airplane barely fits into.

I haven't flown the plane in to try it yet, but I measured and it looks like I've only got about 1' clearance on either side of the wing :eek:

Worse the path leading into it is broken and VERY uneven pavement.

I guess I can see if I can paint some tracks where the wheels go, maybe put some mirrors or something on the walls? Lookin for ideas...
Click to expand...

Paint a good line, take your time, you'll be fine.
 
1' is a waste of space! At my work we consistently put aircraft within a lot less than 6" on all sides, with a spotter of course. 1' of clearence is perfectly doable for a single person pushing a towbar. Just put down a centerline and go slow, it's easier than you think.:thumbsup:
 
http://www.pilotsofamerica.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80428

Check the above thread, maybe some kind of jigsaw puzzle approach?

Regardless, unless you really take your time, every time, I think you're going to some issue. Painted lines for all the gear will help, but what will really help is getting tHe wing tips away from the edges of the door.
 
bnt83 said:
I sit on an electric scooter and push my high wing in the hangar with simply by looking at where the vertical stabilizer is in reference to the back wall in the T hangar. :dunno: No stripes on the ground. Nothing hanging from the ceiling.
Click to expand...

^^^this^^^ (sort of)

Your tail tells you where you're going, your gear only tells you where you've been. I've found stipes/marks centered on the fold-up door and back wall that I align the tail with to be far more effective and easier to use than anything on the floor.

If your tail is centered when it goes through the door and stays centered as you continue towards the back wall, then there's no way you can ding anything.

As a double-check, you might put some hashes on the pavement where the main gear should be crossing when the wing is still about a foot or two in front of the door opening.
 
I just measured this morning. With the main wheels on the tape stripes, I have 24 inches on the left, and 9 inches on the right. (I keep it towards the right to squeeze in a trailer next to the tail.)
 
bnt83 said:
I sit on an electric scooter and push my high wing in the hangar with simply by looking at where the vertical stabilizer is in reference to the back wall in the T hangar. :dunno: No stripes on the ground. Nothing hanging from the ceiling.

Click to expand...


Don't show this pic to your AME!!!!:yikes:
 
Most here just do it by eye, some tenants have painted lines for their aircraft. Personally I've gotten in the habit of putting the tail where I want to go (back center of the hangar) but that takes practice to get right each time. A ground guide is awesome to help out, especially to push back over the rails, because a good number of the hangars here have an incline to roll up to and letting go to check wingtips myself isn't a good idea.

I've always thought it'd be a great idea to leave your chocks behind the mains when you pull it out so it gives you an accurate marker for not only horizontal alignment but depth as well. It'd also stop you if it started going too far in, or started rolling. The tails go back quite a ways on most planes and to get the door closed without damaging the nose can be hard to gauge.

You could also take the tennis ball on a string approach over the cockpit or wing tips as a guide but wind might negate the usefulness of them. I mostly push high wings into hangars though.
 
I chock the nose wheel, and only move the one in front to pull out. The other one is where I stop pushing in. With practice, you won't have to move it sideways very often; with your narrow hangar, "never" moving it sideways is a good target.
 
Paint some extended lines,get it lined up,put it away. A foot on each side should give you some manuvering room.
 
Put in some anchors and screw 2x4's to the floor to make a channel for each tire so you can't get off track.
 
Make a "range". Find or place two objects high in the front and back of your hangar that make a centerline. You need to be able to see them when pushing your plane back. Find another two objects on the front and rear of your airplane that make a centerline. Likewise, you need to be able to see these when pushing the airplane, too. On my Piper, I use the vertical stabilizer and the middle of the windshield.

Line up all four objects and push away. I have been doing this for years and get my plane back into position within a couple inches every time.

Tim
 
1" yeow!

I switched to using a winch (at the back of the hangar) last year and noticed I have a LOT of control when backing the airplane into the hangar. Never really could get the nack of pushing with the 4-wheeler or a golf cart. In my case the tips are close and I have to watche the ruddevaders.... The winch is slower, but I have precise control with the tow bar... Add in some lines and 1" clearance would be possible. Not sure I would want to do it with my airplane though...
 
timrb said:
Make a "range". Find or place two objects high in the front and back of your hangar that make a centerline. You need to be able to see them when pushing your plane back. Find another two objects on the front and rear of your airplane that make a centerline. Likewise, you need to be able to see these when pushing the airplane, too. On my Piper, I use the vertical stabilizer and the middle of the windshield.

Line up all four objects and push away. I have been doing this for years and get my plane back into position within a couple inches every time.

Tim
Click to expand...

Tip of the tail and top of the prop works well for me, but would be troublesome with a 2-blade prop.

Practice with helpers at the wing tips will make all the difference for you.
 
Well...it fit.

We drew a crowd and it took 3 people. But it was done.
 

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