Digital Mag Timing Rite-System

Paveslave53

Paveslave53

Pre-takeoff checklist
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Paveslave53
I used to use a Rite system Digital mag kit but I want to order a new one and cant seem to find any for sale.I have called and emailed but have no response.Is he still in business? Anyone know where I can get a new kit? Is there something new on the market? It hands down was the most accurate timing I have ever seen. So manny customers came back and said that the engine or engines were running way better after we used this system for timing.
 
YUP! But that one reads out of stock and you cant order it. It’s super frustrating.
 
All this system is is a standard magneto box, a digital protractor, and plastic brackets to attach to the spinner.
It is a nice setup, but you can DIY it quite easily.

Here is a build-it-yourself magneto timer for $25:

http://www.brewingtontech.com/

And here is the angle finder:

https://www.amazon.com/Protractor-Inclinometer-Measuring-Carpentry-Automobile/dp/B07R12DZQ9/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3KTJ11ESL7UJW&keywords=digital+protractor&qid=1579315322&sprefix=Digital+pro,aps,152&sr=8-5

You can make the other stuff with styrofoam and rubber bands, or use Command strips.
 
You come up with a better mousetrap and put it up for sale...
Then you get creamed by everyone because you're charging too much for "something I can make for $25.00". So you say screw it and give up.

It was a great kit, easy to use and, as you say, very accurate. Simply a godsend for timing Continental engines with their hidden timing marks...
Hiperbiper JMPO
 
It’s like 150 bucks or something. And it had a warranty. I don’t care about the mag box I have my squawk box but the system was super easy to use and had a nice little case to throw in the back of the truck. I can make one I guess if he doesn’t make them anymore. I always used double sided tape when I put it on the spinner to keep it straight worked like a champ. His setup is so much more accurate I’m telling you no comparison to the old dial method. Never used it as a flight control tool.
 
I posted above about the DIY method. I just want to clarify something:

The Rite System is a great tool. I have one and use it every time I install a mag or check timing. If something happened to mine, I would try to buy another. The brackets are nice. And the case keeps everything protected and not scattered over the hangar.

I was only trying to say that you ~can~ assemble all of the components on your own IF you can't find one to buy, or IF you can't pay the asking price, or IF you like to tinker.

No way was I saying that the Rite system costs too much. It is a bargain at that price. But if you can't get one...
 
You can make a very accurate magneto timer for under $1.00:


1. Put a wooden doweling in a spark plug hole to stop the the piston about half way up.

2. Fashion a pointer attached to the engine so you can mark this position on the spinner.

3. Turn the prop the other direction until it again hits the doweling and mark this location on the spinner.

4. Take some safety or other wire and cut (or bend) to the length of the distance along the spinner between the marks you made.

5. Fold the wire in half and mark the spinner at this distance between the marks. You now have a very accurate TDC point.

6. Wrap a wire entirely around the spinner and you can now measure the circumference.

7.Knowing this you can convert length to degrees (by dividing by 360).

8 Mark the spinner at the timing degrees you want and you can still use most of the safety wire.
 
Kevin,
After re reading what I wrote I think I was a bit harsh replying to your comment. Sorry, no malice intended...I just have a sore spot about stuff like this because what happened to John and his brainchild has happened to me, albeit mine was in the field of R/C helicopters in the late 90's. It just makes innovative people keep their ideas to themselves.
Again, sorry if I came off as a git.
Hiperbiper
 
I use an angle protractor app (Angle Pro - free) for my iPhone to measure the angle to the 0.1 degree and a piston stop. Very accurate.

Tape phone to prop.....on #1 cylinder find top piston stop position (record angle value)....rotate prop to find other lower piston stop angle....take difference and that's TDC.....subtract to get the BTDC location and set timing. Easy peasy.
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I’ve got this kit with the metal box, it’s held up good over the years. The foam in the box is like new and plenty of space to add any p-lead adapters needed. Shame it’s not available anymore. I’m guessing the time-rite thing is more lucrative. I did toss the plastic stop thing for an aluminum one.
 

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So he is out of business? Or stoped making it. It’s a shame.. time to fire up the 3D printer at work.
 
Snowmass said:
You can make a very accurate magneto timer for under $1.00:


1. Put a wooden doweling in a spark plug hole to stop the the piston about half way up.

2. Fashion a pointer attached to the engine so you can mark this position on the spinner.

3. Turn the prop the other direction until it again hits the doweling and mark this location on the spinner.

4. Take some safety or other wire and cut (or bend) to the length of the distance along the spinner between the marks you made.

5. Fold the wire in half and mark the spinner at this distance between the marks. You now have a very accurate TDC point.

6. Wrap a wire entirely around the spinner and you can now measure the circumference.

7.Knowing this you can convert length to degrees (by dividing by 360).

8 Mark the spinner at the timing degrees you want and you can still use most of the safety wire.
Click to expand...

Ingenious, and reminiscent of your $1.98 battery charger! Couple questions though:

1) How do you ensure that the wooden dowel does not move or deform slightly when bumping the piston up against it? I'd be inclined to fabricate a piston stop from an old spark plug and some steel rod/bolt for nearly no cost.

2) How do you determine when the points open? Ye old cellophane trick? Although the price is right, this is probably less accurate and certainly less convenient than the "buzz box" normally used.
 
If someone pushes down on the dowel when you gently turn the prop it will be accurate. You could verify by repeating process.

I use a standard ohmmeter set on low ohms. You will see a noticeable jump in resistance when the points open. Switch must on of course but no risk if plugs are out for cleaning or compression test.
 
Checkout_my_Six said:
I use an angle protractor app (Angle Pro - free) for my iPhone to measure the angle to the 0.1 degree and a piston stop. Very accurate.

Tape phone to prop.....on #1 cylinder find top piston stop position (record angle value)....rotate prop to find other lower piston stop angle....take difference and that's TDC.....subtract to get the BTDC location and set timing. Easy peasy.
12-18100.jpg
kVa1K9VSS9d795NMj-3PT2x7opx_DAwbUhAaKW13ZnyQDYiuMii_w77z_rP24wa6jfc=w412-h220-rw
Click to expand...
Dang kinda wish I would have kept one of my old phones threw out the years. Or at least an old I touch. Good Idea I was thinking about trying to figure out a 3D model I could print and stick the phone in that. Problem is they change every 5 min in size. I
 
If anyone has one of these Rite-System kits. I need a new battery for my Cube Level and dont know what version or type of battery it needs. I dont have the original battery. Lost someplace.

if anyone can take a look at what I should use for a battery It would be appreciated.

Direct email address is Paul_Yardy at Hotmail dot com
 
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Paveslave53 said:
So he is out of business? Or stoped making it. It’s a shame.. time to fire up the 3D printer at work.
Click to expand...
We’re you able to print one? Can I get the dimensions from you so that I can try to print one for myself. It is to bad we can’t purchase a new one anymore and I can’t find a used one anywhere. Thanks.
 
Just buy a small plastic flower pot..modify it to attach to your spinner and to hold a timing disc or digital angle gage.
 
Yes, I’ve thought about a using the inside of a roll of duct tape and some PVC or something similar also but there is a young engineer at work who owns a 3D printer that would like to take a shot at reproducing it for me if someone has the dimensions. The flower pot idea might actually work though.
 
Why bother when you can make a super accurate timing device for under $1.00 with stuff you probably already have. Read my previous posts on how. It's so simple. Don't make life complicated.
 
Dad gave me one of these, it works very well, comes in a nice wooden case. time rite.jpg
 
They do work great.

But you MUST have the proper scale and arm as well as understanding the

directions for your particular engine.
 
Magman said:
They do work great.

But you MUST have the proper scale and arm as well as understanding the

directions for your particular engine.
Click to expand...

I've found that RTFM is always a good idea, but something that seems to be rarely practiced in the smartphone era. A YouTube video or a message board thread is all some need to proceed with just about any task.
 
So who are these people who can tell their engine is running "way better" than it was when their mag timing was one tenth of a degree off?
 
Silvaire said:
So who are these people who can tell their engine is running "way better" than it was when their mag timing was one tenth of a degree off?
Click to expand...

The same ones that think 200 dollar speaker wires on their hifi make it sound better :)
 
Doug Reid said:
The same ones that think 200 dollar speaker wires on their hifi make it sound better :)
Click to expand...

Or the timing wasn’t set right in the first place.

I have used the system myself and wish I could find my own. If anyone gets a 3D copy printed up I’d take one myself.
 
I was replying to a remark about being within a tenth of a degree....not that correct timing is not important.
 
Doug Reid said:
The same ones that think 200 dollar speaker wires on their hifi make it sound better :)
Click to expand...

Yea I always found that a six pack of beer would make the hifi sound just as much better (even if only temporarily) and was way cheaper.
 
Silvaire said:
So who are these people who can tell their engine is running "way better" than it was when their mag timing was one tenth of a degree off?
Click to expand...
I'm wondering how many engines are running 10 degrees off.
As long as the valve timing was correct, it didn't make any difference. we always retarded to start 25 degrees, anyway.
 
flyingbrit said:
Ingenious, and reminiscent of your $1.98 battery charger! Couple questions though:

1) How do you ensure that the wooden dowel does not move or deform slightly when bumping the piston up against it? I'd be inclined to fabricate a piston stop from an old spark plug and some steel rod/bolt for nearly no cost.

2) How do you determine when the points open? Ye old cellophane trick? Although the price is right, this is probably less accurate and certainly less convenient than the "buzz box" normally used.
Click to expand...
Simply use the degree indicator on the engine, use the manual to find it.
0-200 /0-300 it is on the crank flange. Lycoming it is on the flywheel.
 
Tom-D said:
Simply use the degree indicator on the engine, use the manual to find it.
0-200 /0-300 it is on the crank flange. Lycoming it is on the flywheel.
Click to expand...
Except that on my Conti IO-520A the factory degree indicator was off by a degree. Not much but I was fling one degree too retarded.
 
Snowmass said:
Except that on my Conti IO-520A the factory degree indicator was off by a degree. Not much but I was fling one degree too retarded.
Click to expand...
I would question how you determined it was 1 degree off.
 
I believe TCM has an SB not to use the Indicator on the Alt Drive.

Crank markings are often covered by the Spinner Plate on big bores.
 
I've still got one of these E25's. No batteries needed.

e25lg.jpg
 
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