Cleanest way to open oil filter

ArrowFlyer86

ArrowFlyer86

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The Little Arrow That Could
This year I started changing my own oil, which has been way more convenient than bringing it into the shop. The only issue is that when I have to open the oil filter to check for debris after an oil change it's... not a very neat process. In fact my process is about as ungraceful as can be.

I watched a couple tutorials online, and one of the more promising one uses this tool which I'm not familiar with... Hoping someone can point me in the right direction on where to get one or provide other tips/recommendations for how to open one up more neatly... In case it helps, I'm using the Tempest EZ Spin oil filters just like the guy in this video.

Any recommendations appreciated!

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I use this with a vice. It was about half the price it is now years ago. I loan it out to trusted friends who loan me things in return sometimes. Before I had a vice in my hangar, I stuck a ratchet with a 1" socket in the hitch receiver of my pickup to hold the filter while I turned the cutter. That worked well.

I put the filter element in an old 1 gallon milk jug to drain before inspecting the paper element.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/afc470cutter.php

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Thanks! I should have suspected there were pre-made tools specifically for this...
I wish I bought one when you did. Over $100 for this contraption seems like robbery. But it beats the hell out of me nearly cutting myself to pieces with my makeshift method.
 
mandm said:
Did the third video fill the oil filter with oil before reinstalling?
Click to expand...
The third video was on a dodge


I have one for my plane but it will have to wait until the next oil change.
 
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mondtster said:
That tool is fine if you don’t need to cut a 48110 or 48111 filter with the male threads sticking out of it. The filter cutters designed for the aviation market all have a hole in them to allow the threads to stick through, as can be seen in the first two photos in the thread.
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Don't have a picture, but I cut a hole in this exact tool to accommodate the male threads. Works perfectly and way cheaper than the "aviation" version. If I remember correctly, I used a step drill to make the hole. EDIT - actually it was this one https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lng-77750
 
fwiw - cutting the filter isn't the messy part - at least not in my very limited experience.

I've used that tool available at Spruce.

But the aeroclub I belonged to had a dedicated setup with a vise, a small "gutter" to catch the oil and funnel it into a small tank, and a hacksaw that was only used to cut open filters and cut the filter element. Very useful setup.

And I used nitrile gloves (mostly because I had them...)
 
mondtster said:
That tool is fine if you don’t need to cut a 48110 or 48111 filter with the male threads sticking out of it. The filter cutters designed for the aviation market all have a hole in them to allow the threads to stick through, as can be seen in the first two photos in the thread.
Click to expand...
The male nipple is easy to unscrew and remove.
 
I use this tool to cut it open. I take a quick look in the pleats for anything obvious then let it drain over night.
011_4.jpg

Cut a few pleats out and take a look. Pretty clean job.
I am going to switch over to a re usable Challenger filter and will have to get my hands more dirty cleaning it in my parts washer with solvent.
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MarkH said:
Before spending $100 on this, I would consider spending $345 on a reusable oil filter.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/challengerLifetime.php?clickkey=4779

(Note: I have never used one, but I was planning to buy one on my next annual partially due to difficulty finding filters in 2020/2021)

Some youtube videos I bookmarked for more info.
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Wow I watched that cleaning video, are you kidding me? By the time you take to clean that little filter 3 times, 3 ways and then spray hi pressure water and air through it...that is going to take forever and wear out the filter element much sooner. It will be easier and cheaper to use a new 50 dollar throw away filter.
I have cleaned these type filters on racing engines. I use mineral spirits in a parts washer with a pump and I back flush the element . Clean filter housing and put it back together in less than a half hour. If a engine is making metal then it takes more time to properly clean it. imo I think solvent is best to clean it with rather then mixing cleaners and methods. Imo a can of brake Klean is worthless. Remember water and oil don’t mix…

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I got this one in the spring of this year, last I heard they were back ordered?
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20 years or so back I filled in as a line mechanic at a flight and A&P school at Thun Field WA. I found the perfect way to open and inspect an oil filter.
I just handed it to a student and instructed him how to open and inspect it. Never even got a drop of oil on my hands. :rolleyes:
 
Domenick said:
Totally AWESOME. Tin snips look way easier than my special purpose magic cutter, and I have an identical pair.
I let my filters drain overnight. A disposable paint tray to contain the mess is a good idea.

Here's a write up I did years and years ago. Ignore the can cutting.
https://www.demonick.com/flying/Oil.Filter.Inspection/index.html
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Good article. I see the recommendation for oil analysis. I've done that for the last few years after a friend caught a concern with his engine (experimental) that would have soon left him in the trees. I keep an eye on hot idle oil pressure also as that is an early indicator of bearing wear.

Engines are expensive and we put a lot of trust in them for ourselves and our passengers. Only seems appropriate to use all available means (within reason) to keep them healthy.
 
I've used this one for years and have been happy with it:
Oil Filter Can Cutter, from Klushman Racing Company, krc-1203 (chiefaircraft.com)
It comes with two different size cutter disc holders and pegs for the center of the filter: one is perfect for the Champ/Tempest for my Lycoming, the other is perfect for Rotax filters.

Especially if the cutter gets dull, be aware you can get some white paint chips in the filter from cutting it. Don't be faked into thinking they came from the engine. Probably true for most cutters.

ADD: I just noticed it's the same cutter as Domenick shows in his article - and his photo shows the paint chips.
 
I have a pair of tin snips as in the video, and I have an old unopened oil filter. I'll try the tin ships and report back.
 
I may be wrong, but it seems to me the metal case on an aviation oil filter is thicker than an automotive oil filter, which seems to be about the same thickness as a beer can. I would be interested in hearing whether you can use this technique on an aviation oil filter.
 
LesGawlik said:
I may be wrong, but it seems to me the metal case on an aviation oil filter is thicker than an automotive oil filter, which seems to be about the same thickness as a beer can. I would be interested in hearing whether you can use this technique on an aviation oil filter.
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For sure…aviation filters are thicker especially if you get your oil changed at a quick lube. Those filters are small and thin, dam near beer can thickness.

I have have done many oil changes for 35 years as I maintain a small fleet of cars and trucks. I have a filter factory representative who helps me maintain my filter inventory.

That filter cutter I showed above is a Tom’s filter cutter sold by Aircraft Spruce for 66 bucks, the cheapest one listed and does all size aircraft filters perfectly every time without any paint chips ever getting knocked loose from the filter.

For 66 bucks why would you use tin snips? Tom cutter cuts it clean with one turn of the tool, about 10 second’s and no paint chips.
 
Gary Ward said:
For 66 bucks why would you use tin snips? Tom cutter cuts it clean with one turn of the tool, about 10 second’s and no paint chips.
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Well since you asked the question ... :)

1) Because I squeak when I walk and I have tin snips available already.

2) That cutter also requires a $150.00 vise to hold the filter in place while you cut it.

3) Tin snips are pretty quick too and only require one pass around the filter.

4) I'm hard headed and always do things differently.

But you make a great point. If I was in the business of opening filters I'd likely buy a real oil filter tool ... :D
 
I just cut a filter yesterday. I took an old baking tray to put on top of the workbench. I have an automotive filter cutter from JEGS, which I think cost about $25. There are two types of filters, one with male threads, and one with female threads, like most automotive filters. I had to drill a hole in the JEGS filter cutter to accommodate the male threaded filters. I have a 1" wrench I use to remove the filters. All I have to do is put the filter cutter on the baking tray, put the filter on the cutter, and turn the filter with the wrench.

The really tough thing was getting the filter media out. That was a chore. It also makes a considerable mess. The good news was there was nothing in the pleats.
 
Domenick said:
I have a pair of tin snips as in the video, and I have an old unopened oil filter. I'll try the tin ships and report back.
Click to expand...

LesGawlik said:
I may be wrong, but it seems to me the metal case on an aviation oil filter is thicker than an automotive oil filter, which seems to be about the same thickness as a beer can. I would be interested in hearing whether you can use this technique on an aviation oil filter.
Click to expand...

You are not wrong. The method in the video did not work on my Tempest Aviation filter. The feel of the can is many times the thickness and stiffness of a beer can. I have the same style snips as in the video and have used them for their intended purpose many times. In the time I spent trying to make the first snip through the rolled edge, I could have opened the filter with my magic tool.

Verdict: might work on an automotive oil filter, but aviation oil filters are stouter beasts.
 
F5DAD6DD-8317-4D8A-A5F2-CEB8C926413E.jpeg No more filter cutting…Engine is 52 months old and has 469.7 hours on it. My 9th oil change, that is pretty many oil filters in 52 months.
 
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I had a tough time going through the filter media with a utility knife. I am thinking about getting a carpet cutting knife, since the business portion of the blade seems longer that a regular utility knife. If that doesn't work, I will try a razor saw. I recognize I will have to be careful not to score the metal so as not to introduce metal shavings.
 
Made this 40 second crummy video of cutting this filter open one handed with Tom's cutter to show how well it works with a vice and a decent work bench.
Might be the last time I cut a filter on this engine?
I realize not all filters are the same.
I let the whole filter drain out over night, then cut it open the next day. Then let the element drain for another day if I can. By then it's a pretty clean job with most oil drained.
The pleats were clean thankfully on this one.
https://youtube.com/shorts/Ob3niMyjYYo
 
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mondtster said:
That tool is fine if you don’t need to cut a 48110 or 48111 filter with the male threads sticking out of it. The filter cutters designed for the aviation market all have a hole in them to allow the threads to stick through, as can be seen in the first two photos in the thread.
Click to expand...
That tool cuts male (with nipple) filters just fine. The pin/bolt seats nicely in the nipple and the cutting wheel does its thing just above the bottom seam of the filter.
Done so for the last 15 years
 
Personally, I cut the filter housing as above but don't cut all the pleats apart. I wash it in my gasoline in a gallon water jug with top cut off, and let everything sink to bottom and inspect.
 
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