Cigarette Lighter/USB Port

Bart Goins

Bart Goins

Filing Flight Plan
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Bartman1959
I recently bought a 1964 Cessna 172E that has a cigarette lighter with a USB Port adapter. The USB adapter has a light on it that shows when it is receiving power. However, when I plug my iPad into the USB adapter, my iPad doesn't show that it is charging. My iPad continues to discharge as if it's not receiving any power from the adapter at all. I tried another adapter, and got the same results. Is the cigarette lighter not putting out enough amps? What is the fix?
 
Bart Goins said:
I recently bought a 1964 Cessna 172E that has a cigarette lighter with a USB Port adapter. The USB adapter has a light on it that shows when it is receiving power. However, when I plug my iPad into the USB adapter, my iPad doesn't show that it is charging. My iPad continues to discharge as if it's not receiving any power from the adapter at all. I tried another adapter, and got the same results. Is the cigarette lighter not putting out enough amps? What is the fix?
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On the iPad, I am just running Foreflight with ADS-B traffic from my Stratus.
 
Try another cable. Try the adapter in your car. Try another device in the plane. That'll tell you which component isn't working.
 
Those things can put out a couple of amps. I would try a different one. Just be aware that they can interfere with the radios.
 
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Dana said:
Try another cable. Try the adapter in your car. Try another device in the plane. That'll tell you which component isn't working.
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Great advice, I'm going to give those a try. Thanks
 
Joe_B1 said:
Those things can put out a couple of amps. I would try a different one. Just be aware that they can interfere with the radios.
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I have tried two of them now, and no change. Are you referring to the adapters interfering with the radios?
 
Joe_B1 said:
Those things can put out a couple of amps. I would try a different one. Just be aware that they can interfere with the radios.
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Yep ... a cheap USB power adapter can certainly cause a lot of noise. I bought a good one and placed it in my baggage compartment behind me.
 
I’ve used a cigarette lighter dual USB port that also has a voltage readout. Charges iPad, iPhone, etc. Just make sure your cigarette usb device is not too cheap, but one with good reviews/ratings. Put it into another cigarette lighter to see if it’s device related or airplane related.
 
Bart Goins said:
I have tried two of them now, and no change. Are you referring to the adapters interfering with the radios?
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Yes, they are cheap switching buck converters. They tend to generate a lot of RFI due to their design. Check out prices, most go for a couple of bucks. You won't get a very good design at that price point. One of these converters that is specifically designed to work in an aircraft will be considerably more expensive.
 
TrueCourse said:
I’ve used a cigarette lighter dual USB port that also has a voltage readout. Charges iPad, iPhone, etc. Just make sure your cigarette usb device is not too cheap, but one with good reviews/ratings. Put it into another cigarette lighter to see if it’s device related or airplane related.
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That is exactly what I plan to do in the next day or two. Thanks.
 
For charging IPads, you want about 2.4 amps per port. Many only do about 1.2 amps which are fine for IPhones but not tablets.
 
kshaw said:
For charging IPads, you want about 2.4 amps per port. Many only do about 1.2 amps which are fine for IPhones but not tablets.
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My iPad Air 4 needs 30 watts min, it came with a 40 watt charger.

Type A fast charge 2.4A @ 5V
There is a QC high amp type for a usb type A port. It can go up to 5, 9, 12V. @1 or 2A.
Then there is the new PD type C that uses multiple voltages 5-20 @ 5A for up to 100 watts.
I’m doing an avionics upgrade this summer and putting a 12V cigarette lighter in so I can keep up with the power requirements of all the electronic devices.
 
kshaw said:
For charging IPads, you want about 2.4 amps per port. Many only do about 1.2 amps which are fine for IPhones but not tablets.
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I bought a double usb port adapter that will do 6 amps, 3 amps each.
 
manac said:
My iPad Air 4 needs 30 watts min, it came with a 40 watt charger.

Type A fast charge 2.4A @ 5V
There is a QC high amp type for a usb type A port. It can go up to 5, 9, 12V. @1 or 2A.
Then there is the new PD type C that uses multiple voltages 5-20 @ 5A for up to 100 watts.
I’m doing an avionics upgrade this summer and putting a 12V cigarette lighter in so I can keep up with the power requirements of all the electronic devices.
Click to expand...

I'll check my usb adapters with the cigarette lighter in my truck. If they work good there, I'll check the output for the cigarette lighter in the plane.
 
Bart Goins said:
Is that hard wired in?
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Yes it is, fits into an unused instrument hole. It is TSO certified and comes in multiple configurations. Each port provides 3 amps and I can confirm it does not mess with my radios.
 
Joe_B1 said:
Yes it is, fits into an unused instrument hole. It is TSO certified and comes in multiple configurations. Each port provides 3 amps and I can confirm it does not mess with my radios.
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That will probably my next step if this cigarette lighter usb port doesn't work. Thanks.
 
Joe_B1 said:
Yes it is, fits into an unused instrument hole. It is TSO certified and comes in multiple configurations. Each port provides 3 amps and I can confirm it does not mess with my radios.
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Did you have to run a separate circuit breaker for this?
 
Bart Goins said:
Did you have to run a separate circuit breaker for this?
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It was part of a pretty major panel upgrade so it got wired to its own breaker but I don't think it necessarily has to be. It has a 2 pin Molex connector on the back for the power input. Mine comes on when ever the master is on. I believe there are models that have 1, 2, 3, or 4 ports, mine has 2. There are different output port connector options as well, I went with the standard type A USB.

If you scroll down the page of that link I posted, they have a table that shows all the different options.
 
When I first bought my 1966 172H model, the usb adapter i had plugged into my cig lighter outlet wouldn't charge my Ipad...it would charge my iphone however. I bought a newer one from Walmart and it seems to at least hold the charge steady on my ipad so it doesn't go down so i guess it is charging. (the lightning bolt shows on my ipad)

I got crazy and paid for the $50 one from Aircraft Spruce or Sportys that has the digital readout of the voltage and the dang thing will not seem to fit tight enough into the cig lighter to stay connected. Not enough friction from the metal fittings i guess. It works as a great volt meter if i am curious about the battery and dont mind holding it in by hand.
 
scarcherpilot said:
When I first bought my 1966 172H model, the usb adapter i had plugged into my cig lighter outlet wouldn't charge my Ipad...it would charge my iphone however. I bought a newer one from Walmart and it seems to at least hold the charge steady on my ipad so it doesn't go down so i guess it is charging. (the lightning bolt shows on my ipad)

I got crazy and paid for the $50 one from Aircraft Spruce or Sportys that has the digital readout of the voltage and the dang thing will not seem to fit tight enough into the cig lighter to stay connected. Not enough friction from the metal fittings i guess. It works as a great volt meter if i am curious about the battery and dont mind holding it in by hand.
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Try bending the tabs so they have more friction. That should work. Or even wrap it in a few wraps of aluminum foil to increase its size.
 
Bart Goins said:
I recently bought a 1964 Cessna 172E that has a cigarette lighter with a USB Port adapter. The USB adapter has a light on it that shows when it is receiving power. However, when I plug my iPad into the USB adapter, my iPad doesn't show that it is charging. My iPad continues to discharge as if it's not receiving any power from the adapter at all. I tried another adapter, and got the same results. Is the cigarette lighter not putting out enough amps? What is the fix?
Click to expand...

A few things to consider:

1. What's the amp rating on the USB adapters you're using? I think you need a minimum of 2.1 amps to keep an iPad from discharging.
2. Does the iPad battery icon turn green with a lightning bolt through it when the iPad is connected to the USB adapter? If not, this might indicate a bad cable.
3. Try a different cable anyway.

This article from Sporty's might be helpful: https://ipadpilotnews.com/2019/11/charging-your-ipad-what-you-need-to-know-3/

Good luck!
 
Matthew Rogers said:
Try bending the tabs so they have more friction. That should work. Or even wrap it in a few wraps of aluminum foil to increase its size.
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I wish I could, but the connections are solid pieces of metal, not the flexible thin pieces unfortunately. The tin foil thing may work...will give that a shot...hadn't thought about that. Thanks.
 
scarcherpilot said:
I wish I could, but the connections are solid pieces of metal, not the flexible thin pieces unfortunately. The tin foil thing may work...will give that a shot...hadn't thought about that. Thanks.
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You do know that Amazon sells those things fot a couple of bucks delivered right? Don't put tin foil into your lighter socket!
 
I had to disassemble my lighter socket to clean the center contact before it would power the USB charger - it was made in 1957 after all. I also bent up a narrow Z shaped piece of aluminum and attached it to the panel beside the light socket with a machine screw, bent so that it holds the charger in place - it can't vibrate out now.
 
Joe_B1 said:
It was part of a pretty major panel upgrade so it got wired to its own breaker but I don't think it necessarily has to be. It has a 2 pin Molex connector on the back for the power input. Mine comes on when ever the master is on. I believe there are models that have 1, 2, 3, or 4 ports, mine has 2. There are different output port connector options as well, I went with the standard type A USB.

If you scroll down the page of that link I posted, they have a table that shows all the different options.
Click to expand...

I checked out the link, thanks. I may have to go that route as well.
 
My wife and I went up this morning so she could try her new headset before our flight down to the CA Central Coast. I plugged my iPad into the usb port in the cigarette light, and still no charge. So, I kinda twisted the usb adapter in the cigarette light, and it lit up and the iPad started charging. I think I was dealing with two different issues since this all began. The first adapted I tried had power (lit up), but the iPad wouldn't charge. The second adapter I tried didn't light up (had no power), and iPad didn't charge. So, after today's little discovery, I think I have it figured out. The first adapter wasn't putting out enough power to charge the iPad, so no good for me. The second adapter wasn't making good contact in the cigarette lighter, so no power, no iPad charging. After twisting the new usb adapter in the cigarette lighter, it made better contact and the iPad was able to charge. Now, I will clean the cigarette lighter contacts and I "should" be good to go.
 
If your USB adapter isn't made by Anker, throw it away and buy an Anker one from Amazon. Consistently work with no RFI issues. If it's USB anything (cables, adapters, chargers), it's Anker only for me.
 
I solved my issue today, and really I'm almost too embarrassed to say what the cause was. Okay, here goes. The first USB adapter was just a piece of junk. The second USB adapter is really a nice one. So nice in fact, it came wrapped in clear plastic wrap that made it look even better. So, Einstein here put it into use WITHOUT removing the plastic wrap. It had barely punctured the wrap enough to make contact intermittently, caused me tons of head aches. After discovering this, and removing the plastic wrap, it works great! I tell you, that was a 62 year old rooky mistake. Oh well.
 
Glad you got it sorted out. I've gone through a couple of USB adapters. I haven't had any Rf interference issues, but there doesn't seem to be enough power to charge my iPad and keep my Stratus going too.
 
obw said:
Glad you got it sorted out. I've gone through a couple of USB adapters. I haven't had any Rf interference issues, but there doesn't seem to be enough power to charge my iPad and keep my Stratus going too.
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Thanks, so am I. My Stratus is wired in separately, under the panel somewhere. I haven't got up under there to see how it's wired. I'm wondering if it's wired in through the transponder, if that's even possible.
 
 
Be just a little cautious with “jiggling” a 12v accessory plug.

The 12v outlet on my Sky Arrow went dead. Turned out to be a blown fuse, located so inaccessibly that the panel had to be pulled to replace it*. Turned out a rivet had worn so that the positive terminal “ears” could rotate and touch ground:

51313801993_4f732673cd.jpg


I fixed it with a dab of epoxy to keep it from turning. No problem since.

*I did take the opportunity to relocate the fuse to a panel mount.

51312873097_606ecbe295.jpg
 
Some long ago mechanic disconnected the cigarette lighter in an old Cessna telling me that it wasn’t a legal use. This thread seems to indicate that it can be re-wired now. Anyone else hear of this?
 
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