Not really. But I've found it more aircraft specific depending on several factors. Matter of fact if you look in the restart 182 service manual they tell you to push the windshield out without removing nothing... or to remove the TOP retainer strip. But yes Virginia it can be done without removing the lower forward windshield retainer strip. The key part by the old guy in your post is "a skilled AP/IA."
That's a technique issue. I've cracked them on removal but never in pieces. Ambient temperature is everything in window work. Everything.
Opinion. Its done by many.
I've always used the old windshield as a pattern to trim then overlayed it to check final dimensions before install.
FYI: thats because someone already replaced the rivets per the mx manual option which if you do remove the retainer strip I highly recommend.
FYI: The window is designed to float in the mounts. A number of people do not trim enough or bevel/smooth the trim edges. Or clean all the junk/sealant out the mount channels. Or, etc.
As I mentioned ambient temperature is everything when removing/installing windows. He probably didn't want you to see how much "abuse" that window can take then yell at him to stop. Plus if he was using localized heating on the window you would usually spot it as it distorts the plastic. Installing a Cessna windshield without removing the retainers is as close to an art as it gets in my opinion.
I was thinking he placed the windshield in super hot water for heating, which might not distort. Plus he probably kept the ambient shop temp damn near unbearable.
Even with removing the retainers and chasing bucktails/nuts behind the panel that seems a bit high but if there's a lot of prep/paint touch up required or that is for 2 people working on it then it could easily hit that. Without removing the retainers I'd usually bid 6-10 hours with 16hrs being the max which was also dependent on the current window installation. Sometimes if the windshield was replaced previously there could be some issues that would require a bit more work..
Re using adhesive (Bostik 1100) to install that windshield: Cessna used felt strips for a reason. It's to let the fuselage flex around the windshield without breaking it. Ever hear a creaking/squeaking noise when you start the engine? That's the windshield moving in its mounts as the firewall twists and flexes the front doorposts. Landing in a crab can really flex that structure, and a glued-in windshield is likely to break. Cold weather shrinks the acrylic windshield more than the aluminum structure, stressing it that way as well. More cracking.
"Transparent aluminum"? Beam me up Danny boy.
That’s not a fun one to do either.
FYI: the Cessna mx manuals I'm familiar with provide an option to use screws, nuts, or rivnuts. In some cases I've fabricated nutplate strips and riveted those in place of a nut/rivnut.
At one time there was a doc on using regular Cherry MS rivets (bulbs) in that location. Cherry Max are a bit over kill and could lead to future issues when being removed. But if you're going to the trouble of removing the retainer, reinstalling with screws and nuts/nutplates is a better route in my experience. I'm not a fan of using rivnuts in that application.
FYI: In some cases a little low adhesion sealant is needed with any blind rivet especially if not self-plugging or over/under drawn.
Agree. Especially if the lock collar is not fully ground off prior to removal.
Yeah. You'll spend a LOT of time getting them out again, especially in a flexible spot like the boot cowl. Impossible to drill due to that hardened pulling stem, making the drill wander off into the aluminum and making "snowman holes" in the cowl. The only way I have found to get them out is to grind the head down with a die grinder and carbide burr to just above the skin surface, which removes the upper stem and locking washer, then push the remaining stem out and drill the remainder. This won't work on countersunk CherryMaxes.
The rivnut's top collar will act as a spacer under the windshield retaining strip. That makes it less rigid and stable against the boot cowl. It could rock back and forth a bit. Adhesive sealants under it, like silicone, can damage the skin (acetic acid released during cure) and wreck that soft-aluminum strip the next time it has to come off.
Exactly. Rivnuts will raise the strip.
The link below will give you a rough visual idea, but for the windshield look at it as though you are making one or a series of doubler strips for the retainer mount holes. Cut the strip(s) from .020 or .025 as narrow as possible that conform to the shape of the windshield frame. Transfer the existing holes to the strip(s) then flush rivet some 6/32 floating nutplates to the aft side of the strip. I usually tack rivet the strips in place but that’s just me. If you don’t just be sure you use a stud or other screw to hold strip in place after you remove the retainer screws.
