C-175/G0-300

Tom-D - Are you recommending to plan on an engine upgrade because Docmirror will want more power for off-airport work, or because of the reliability of the GO-300?
 
GO-300 = 1200 TBO, O-300 = 1800 TBO This is something to think about when buying one.
 
MarkH said:
Tom-D - Are you recommending to plan on an engine upgrade because Docmirror will want more power for off-airport work, or because of the reliability of the GO-300?
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reliability of the GO-300,! you will need to upgrade for parts availability.
 
Tom-D said:
Unfortunately the last 11 years have depleted any spares we may have.
I know little to nothing about their support these days.
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Tom I am refurbishing a 1960 skylark. When I got it the tachometer was not stock. Redline was 2500. I have been cruising 2900 rpm or above. I am redoing the panel and going glass. I have to set the rpm settings. I know redline is 3200 but I have no idea about where the green arc is. How low does it go. I read somewhere that the high teens should be avoided. Something about harmonics. I don’t really know anything about how to fly it other than high rpm. When doing emergency landing practice can you just chop the power. I want the engine to last. Heck it will have a complete engine monitor on it. Any advice on how to set it up would be appreciated. Any advice on how to treat engine appropriately both on ground and in air would also be very helpful. Thanks.
 
I think I still have some OLD Trade a Planes that have ads for the complete

firewall forward 180 hp Franklin Conversion package.

Guess they didn’t like the GO way back when .
 
TommyB said:
Tom I am refurbishing a 1960 skylark. When I got it the tachometer was not stock. Redline was 2500. I have been cruising 2900 rpm or above. I am redoing the panel and going glass. I have to set the rpm settings. I know redline is 3200 but I have no idea about where the green arc is. How low does it go. I read somewhere that the high teens should be avoided. Something about harmonics. I don’t really know anything about how to fly it other than high rpm. When doing emergency landing practice can you just chop the power. I want the engine to last. Heck it will have a complete engine monitor on it. Any advice on how to set it up would be appreciated. Any advice on how to treat engine appropriately both on ground and in air would also be very helpful. Thanks.
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There's an owner's manual for sale on Ebay for $20. 1960 Cessna 175 Owners Manual

Looks like it's recommended to cruise at 2400-3200 RPM

Tachometer:
At sea level: 2400-2900 (inner green arc)
At 5000': 2400-3050 (middle green arc)
At 10000': 2400-3200 (outer green arc)
Maximum: 3200 (red line)
 
I have been flying a 1958 175 for 40 years put a prop tach on it and fly the plane at 2200to 2250 on prop tach the mechanical tach are generally off 100 or 200 rpm The GO 300 is a great engine if treated right just my 2 cents worth. Also never fly a geared engine on the back side of the prop and if it has the redesigned cowl don't chop the power you can shock cool a GO 300 and crack the cylinders as for parts about the only parts that are not available are some of the bearings in the gearbox and some of the main bearings but you can have them re babbited if you have the old bearing shells. the main problem now is finding a mechanic that is familiar with the engine
 
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EVERETT HELMS said:
I have been flying a 1958 175 for 40 years put a prop tach on it and fly the plane at 2200to 2250 on prop tach the mechanical tach are generally off 100 or 200 rpm The GO 300 is a great engine if treated right just my 2 cents worth. Also never fly a geared engine on the back side of the prop and if it has the redesigned cowl don't chop the power you can shock cool a GO 300 and crack the cylinders as for parts about the only parts that are not available are some of the bearings in the gearbox and some of the main bearings but you can have them re babbited if you have the old bearing shells. the main problem now is finding a mechanic that is familiar with the engine
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I have a $1000.00 if you can show me a serviceable set of reduction gears, and bushings for sale.
 
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