3dw
Filing Flight Plan
I press open UP button and get a buzz so I press STOP. It varies, but after 2-3 times, door starts going up normally. Suggestions on what to clean or replace to solve this before it gets worse or quits working? thanks
Bifold door motor BUZZ and won't open without several tries
- Thread starter 3dw
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Is the buzzing at the box on the wall where the up/down buttons are, or at the motor? I believe that unit has a magnetic clutch that could be the issue, but if the buzzing is at the electrical box, it could be as simple as dirty contacts in the push-button making the motor-run relay chatter.
One thing you may be able to do to isolate the problem: when you push the button for "down," does it instantly engage, no buzz? That would indicate that the problem is the "up" button. Of course, you may be past the down limit switch (if there is one), in which case the down button won't do anything at all.
One thing you may be able to do to isolate the problem: when you push the button for "down," does it instantly engage, no buzz? That would indicate that the problem is the "up" button. Of course, you may be past the down limit switch (if there is one), in which case the down button won't do anything at all.
3dw
Filing Flight Plan
Never does it on down. I’ll check UP switch. Thanks
midwestpa24
Final Approach
Appears to have a start capacitor on the side of the motor. That would be my first guess.
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N1431A
Brake not disengaging ??
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Initial Fix
+1 on checking the capacitor.
Otherwise I know this goes against the “I can fix it thoughts” just call a garage door repair company.
Otherwise I know this goes against the “I can fix it thoughts” just call a garage door repair company.
Dan Thomas
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Dan Thomas
It could be two things: The start switch, as proposed by Dana. Those switches get oxidized and burned, and if they don't conduct well the motor just buzzes in a stalled condition. Mikey52 mentioned the start capacitor; it uses the same start switch design, and a weak capacitor could also cause reluctant starting under load, which makes the Up more difficult and the Down easier. Even non-capacitor start motors uses the start switch.
The other possibility is that the pull on the belts or cables is too straight. Some of those systems use arms that stick out at the hinge joint, and the belt of cable runs over it. When the belt/cable tightens, it forces the hinge outward and makes life easier for the motor.
And of course, if there is wind against the door, getting it started is a lot harder. I used to start and stop the motor to tighten the cables, which would encourage the hinge to move outward a bit. A few seconds of patience. The leakage around the door tended to equalize the pressures between the inside and outside, and the door would open more easily on the next start.
The other possibility is that the pull on the belts or cables is too straight. Some of those systems use arms that stick out at the hinge joint, and the belt of cable runs over it. When the belt/cable tightens, it forces the hinge outward and makes life easier for the motor.
And of course, if there is wind against the door, getting it started is a lot harder. I used to start and stop the motor to tighten the cables, which would encourage the hinge to move outward a bit. A few seconds of patience. The leakage around the door tended to equalize the pressures between the inside and outside, and the door would open more easily on the next start.