Any recommendations for hangar floor epoxy?

Anymouse

Anymouse

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I looking at redoing my hangar floor. The concrete was originally sealed, but I really don't like the job they did. I mean, it really sucks. Anyway, it looks like I might be able to take the time to do it this summer. The two brands I'm looking at are Rustoleum and Kilz.

https://smile.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum...SBL6/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1

https://smile.amazon.com/KILZ-L3777...s=kilz+1-part+epoxy+garage+floor+paint&psc=1#

The Rocksolid version of Rustoleum has some pretty nasty reviews, I have no intention of using that, but their "Professional" product seems to get positive reviews.

Kilz seems to get positive reviews as well. The thing I like about Kilz is the 1-part epoxy deal.

Anyway, I was wondering if anyone had any experience with either. I'm up for looking at other products as well.

For the record, I want something that will last decades, won't allow spills and drips to get to the cement (even after sitting for months, and looks good.
 
I've used the Rustoleum product you've referenced on my garage, and it still looks great 12 years later. Makes it very easy to clean my garage floor. Please note the time frame- I've no idea if they changed the formulation since then, but if it is still the same, it's very good. I'd use it again, except I don't need to. Every spring, I scrub the floor to get rid of the winter grime and last summer's grass stains.

Another caveat is surface preparation is very important, but this is true for all finishes. I followed the instructions they gave. There was some oxalic acid included which was used to clean the concrete, actually etch it slightly. This created a fine powder that took some time to properly clean up. It's important this is cleaned or the epoxy will (probably) not adhere to the concrete surface. Make sure there is no oil or anything loose on the floor. There are some temperature limits on the Rustoleum, but they aren't too onerous. I found it stupidly easy to apply. One other thing- I used the optional anti-skid (aluminum oxide powder aka alumina). I'm glad I did as the floor seems slicker when it is wet. It needs to be stirred very often as the alumina settles quickly. I suppose fine sand would work as well, with less stirring required.

I've no opinion about Kilz, simply because I haven't used it.
 
Anymouse said:
For the record, I want something that will last decades, won't allow spills and drips to get to the cement (even after sitting for months, and looks good.
Click to expand...
If this is your goal (decades) then only look at commercial materials. No retail product will last decades. Don't know current prices but most commercial products ran around $1.25 to $2.00 sq/ft plus labor (prep/application.) Look at places like the one below or equivalent.
https://armorpoxy.com/
 
I’d go for a stain
 
Flaking and peeling epoxy looks a lot worse than the bare concrete underneath it.
 
Not a hangar, but I did my 3+ stall garage about 6 years ago and it still looks great. Used a product called Roll On Rock. No "hot tire" peel up. Washes off easily. No chipping.

I was able to do the whole garage in a weekend (except for the fact that I ran a little short on topcoat sealer...my fault though). Prep is key, so really look at what they expect you to do for prep. No acid washing for this product. I believe the company was out of California.

If you want more information, let me know. I'll try to dig up the email to get the name of the company and how much it was per square foot.
 
If the floor has been sealed before, your going to need to grind the floor which you can rent at Home Depot. Box store floor paint i would never use(Single Part Epoxy)! I have used PPG Megaseal (2 Part Epoxy) on many floors and VERY durable, solvant resistant and had the best luck.
 
I did my garage 5-6 years back in Rustoleum epoxy. I degreased, etched, used a diamond grinder, cleaned, etc. Took a few days and cost a crapload but looked awesome when I was done. The half I use as a work area with an OCCASIONAL vehicle parked there still looks great. The bay where my wife's car is parked every night looks like absolute ****. Peeling, chipping, half gone, just horrible. I would in no way recommend it. At all.
 
DaleB said:
I did my garage 5-6 years back in Rustoleum epoxy. I degreased, etched, used a diamond grinder, cleaned, etc. Took a few days and cost a crapload but looked awesome when I was done. The half I use as a work area with an OCCASIONAL vehicle parked there still looks great. The bay where my wife's car is parked every night looks like absolute ****. Peeling, chipping, half gone, just horrible. I would in no way recommend it. At all.
Click to expand...

Was that the Rustoleum RockSolid, or the Professional?
 
On cool days and high humidity, the epoxy floors become a lake. I scraped the old paint off my hangar and left it bare concrete. I bought a 7X14 rubber mat from Costco.
It fits nicely under the plane and is easy to keep clean as nothing sticks to it.
 
Cap'n Jack said:
I've used the Rustoleum product you've referenced on my garage, and it still looks great 12 years later. Makes it very easy to clean my garage floor. Please note the time frame- I've no idea if they changed the formulation since then, but if it is still the same, it's very good. I'd use it again, except I don't need to. Every spring, I scrub the floor to get rid of the winter grime and last summer's grass stains.

Another caveat is surface preparation is very important, but this is true for all finishes. I followed the instructions they gave. There was some oxalic acid included which was used to clean the concrete, actually etch it slightly. This created a fine powder that took some time to properly clean up. It's important this is cleaned or the epoxy will (probably) not adhere to the concrete surface. Make sure there is no oil or anything loose on the floor. There are some temperature limits on the Rustoleum, but they aren't too onerous. I found it stupidly easy to apply. One other thing- I used the optional anti-skid (aluminum oxide powder aka alumina). I'm glad I did as the floor seems slicker when it is wet. It needs to be stirred very often as the alumina settles quickly. I suppose fine sand would work as well, with less stirring required.

I've no opinion about Kilz, simply because I haven't used it.
Click to expand...

Thanks Jack.

I think the prep part will be the hardest part of this project (isn't it always??). The 2nd hardest part will be finding a place to store all the crap I have in the hangar. Especially the planes. The Tango isn't a big deal, but I'm not sure if I want to keep the T-Craft outside for a week or more.
 
Bell206 said:
If this is your goal (decades) then only look at commercial materials. No retail product will last decades. Don't know current prices but most commercial products ran around $1.25 to $2.00 sq/ft plus labor (prep/application.) Look at places like the one below or equivalent.
https://armorpoxy.com/
Click to expand...

Looking it up. Thanks!!
 
Anymouse said:
Thanks Jack.

I think the prep part will be the hardest part of this project (isn't it always??). The 2nd hardest part will be finding a place to store all the crap I have in the hangar. Especially the planes. The Tango isn't a big deal, but I'm not sure if I want to keep the T-Craft outside for a week or more.
Click to expand...
The prep work was the hardest for me. I was able to do the work in two halves. I do park 2 cars on it every night.
 
I used the Rustolem product on a new concrete floor 10 years ago without the clear top coat. It needs repainted to day due to abrasion, but I am happy with the product.
 
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Glad to hear the good reports on the Rustoleum. Well, mostly good.

Unfortunately, Bell206 is ticking me off. I've been looking at the website he posted. I'm thinking this job cost might have tripled!! :mad2:
 
Anymouse said:
Was that the Rustoleum RockSolid, or the Professional?
Click to expand...
EpoxyShield, if I recall correctly. 2-part epoxy. Great for foot traffic and a work bench. Worthless under cars. Maybe OK for a hangar, but I personally would never use it again.
 
DaleB said:
EpoxyShield, if I recall correctly. 2-part epoxy. Great for foot traffic and a work bench. Worthless under cars. Maybe OK for a hangar, but I personally would never use it again.
Click to expand...

Just checked the link again. Epoxy shield is what I'm looking at. Thanks for the pirep.
 
Go commercial. I have fugged up two floors...one right by myself and I paid to have the other one fugged up.

Should have gone with a commercial product.

Pay the big money...you will be glad you did. I have a peeling mess that I will redo one day...

Edit:
I see what you mean about Bell206...
 
Anymouse said:
Just checked the link again. Epoxy shield is what I'm looking at. Thanks for the pirep.
Click to expand...
Yeah... no. I wouldn't. That's the stuff I bought at Home Depot. I want the two days I spent grinding my floor down back.
 
Take a look at https://www.garagecoatings.com/categories/epoxy-flooring-epoxy-floor-coating.asp Not cheap, but I’m very pleased with the results. I did both my hangar and my garage with their stuff. The key is proper prep. Forget all that acid etch stuff. Go with a grinder.

Lots of good info for do-it-yourselfers here:
https://allgaragefloors.com/

Hangar before :
2e9d0dd5d5430cce7abbbf12df5eb58e.jpg


Hangar after:
fcb3e3d9197215f94a590d51fce6e5a5.jpg


Garage during the prep process:
970920cbe87d0b5bfd0b35258397a436.jpg

a8160e0b3da10fd81914ebf909cd9f58.jpg


Garage after:
5a6df0e87c87645c3dd82631c38b111a.jpg

caa9ff157501e63e47bb2d3f6bc30b32.jpg



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Oh, and one more thing. The paint flake treatment looks very good, but it’s a real pain to find a dropped small item like a screw or nut. Fine for a garage, but I went for plain white for the hangar floor.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
jimhorner said:
Hangar after:
fcb3e3d9197215f94a590d51fce6e5a5.jpg
Click to expand...

I didn't see those models in the "Before" picture. If they come with the epoxy, I'm in!!

jimhorner said:
Oh, and one more thing. The paint flake treatment looks very good, but it’s a real pain to find a dropped small item like a screw or nut. Fine for a garage, but I went for plain white for the hangar floor.
Click to expand...

I was planning on using flakes. Hadn't thought about the "losing small items" thing. Might have to reconsider.
 
jimhorner said:
Oh, and one more thing. The paint flake treatment looks very good, but it’s a real pain to find a dropped small item like a screw or nut. Fine for a garage, but I went for plain white for the hangar floor.
Click to expand...
Oh yeah. I did the flakes, then started building an RV. Go ahead -- spill a handful of 2/32 rivets on the floor and try to find them all. If I were doing it again I'd go with white or some solid color.
 
Anymouse said:
I didn't see those models in the "Before" picture. If they come with the epoxy, I'm in!!
Click to expand...


No, sorry; the models come from redoing the garage and adding lots of overhead storage hanging from the ceiling. That had been the home of the models. Had to move them somewhere, and the hangar seemed like a good location.

As a side note, these overhead storage racks from Saferacks https://www.saferacks.com/buy-direct/overhead-garage-storage.html are really nice.

54232472f28d2e1cebc127eb6bcf1244.jpg







Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Anymouse said:
Unfortunately, Bell206 is ticking me off. I've been looking at the website he posted. I'm thinking this job cost might have tripled!!
Click to expand...
Ha. There are just some things I hate to see another person go through that I could have prevented. And this is one. I've never used the Armorpoxy product personally but know some who did and would use this product if I ever had a reason to coat a floor. I had used an equivalent 2 part coating that is no longer available. As a DIY tip, I had the last floor done professionally and they applied the product wearing old-fashion golf spikes to reduce contamination and allow walking over wet paint.

If this will be a "working" hangar then a definite +1 not to use any flake accents and use the lightest color you can handle. White or light gray preferred. As mentioned finding dropped stuff on a dark flake floor is a PITA. Also you'll be surprised how much light reflects off the floor. When we got a new hangar at the day job they brought in a light-specialist and he assisted in selecting the floor paint color to increase light levels in the work areas. Unfortunately, due to cost (it was a 100'x200') they went with the the right color but wrong product. I think they're still repainting that floor on a regular basis.

FYI: I have seen the garagecoatings product in several non-mx T-hangars and it looks to work quite well.
 
If you already have a flake finish, or just really want one, or simply can't see something you dropped, there is a trick to finding small stuff on the floor. Use a flashlight shining across the floor a ground level. Anything sticking up will cast a long shadow.

If you want shag carpet, I got nothing. :)
 
Anymouse said:
I didn't see those models in the "Before" picture. If they come with the epoxy, I'm in!!
I was planning on using flakes. Hadn't thought about the "losing small items" thing. Might have to reconsider.
Click to expand...
DaleB said:
Oh yeah. I did the flakes, then started building an RV. Go ahead -- spill a handful of 2/32 rivets on the floor and try to find them all. If I were doing it again I'd go with white or some solid color.
Click to expand...

Ours was crazy slick when wet without the flakes. Still a little slick with the flakes when wet. Maybe see if you can get flakes the same color as the epoxy if you are concerned about losing sight of tiny objects.
 
jsstevens said:
Use a flashlight shining across the floor a ground level. Anything sticking up will cast a long shadow.
Click to expand...
+1. And a good old fashion broom or a magnet (if applicable) make great parts finders.
 
DGlaeser said:
I know the owners of this company - and they did my garage floor. Very satisfied. You can get their do-it-yourself kits and do your garage and/or hangar...
https://www.epoxy-coat.com/
Click to expand...

Best game in town. Use the silica (sand) for grip, but it does collect a little more dirt. Be sure to clear coat, and it will out-last you.
 
I've done two concrete floors.

-"One part epoxy" =Bad. Will never hold up like a proper two-part.

The best? The stinkier it is, the more skull & crossbones warnings about how harmful it is, the better the product.
Maybe a bit oversimplified, but not by much. Anything sold at the local hardware store or Home Despot will never hold up like the products sold to commercial painters. Go to a real paint store.

First floor was one-part epoxy. Miserable failure.
Second floor was hazardous material. Two coats primer, two coats high-gloss white. Looks wonderful, several years later.
 
This might be a summer 2020 project. Looking around the hangar I see lot's of prep work to do. Several cracks noted, mostly on the edges. Lot's of little oil stains, with one big one from when the Staggerwing was being stored in there. And I'd like to fill in the expansion cracks. I'm thinking of doing a bit here, a bit there and saving money up to buy the good stuff. Hopefully I can keep the oil/gas drips to a minimum until then.
 
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