An extraordinarily bizarre airspeed mystery that no A&P can solve

Does YOURS have only a six-inch tube coming off the back of the altimeter and taking cockpit static pressure?

Get under your panel, find the static connection to the airspeed indicator, and trace where it goes. My guess is that it got pinched/disconnected/plugged somewhere.
My static source is a static tube mounted directly below the pitot tube under the LH wing. I have traced the static line from the standby ASI and standby altimeter all the way to where it exits the fuselage into the wing and could not detect any anomalies in that section of the line, nor any anomalies from the static tube to about 6 inches into the wing (as cannot see in further than that).
 
I noticed yesterday that to taxi straight on the ground, a good amount of right rudder is needed. Along with differential braking, of course. But shouldn't my pedals be neutral while taxi'ing?
Depends on wind, taxiway slope, and a few other less pronounced factors.

this is why I’m suggesting you get the airplane flying straight before you start messing with trim tabs. You seem to have some misconceptions about aircraft control.
 
You seem to have some misconceptions about aircraft control.
Thanks for the dig. We almost made it a whole 100 posts in this thread before the first dig! Again, the airplane apparently wasn't flying straight before when I had 10+ knots greater airspeed so I'd like to focus on that problem only after solving the reduction in airspeed problem because the two are not related.
 
Thanks for the dig. We almost made it a whole 100 posts in this thread before the first dig! Again, the airplane apparently wasn't flying straight before when I had 10+ knots greater airspeed so I'd like to focus on that problem only after solving the reduction in airspeed problem because the two are not related.
Exactly my point.
 
If the rigging is not an issue and the instruments check out, then power production in flight is the culprit. Air cleaner blocked, carb air linkage/backing out etc. would show up a in cruise flight and have an effect on TAS. You never know.
 
Brad, wouldn't something like a blocked engine air filter result in reduced RPM? I'm not seeing any reduction in RPM nor throttle response. It's a fuel injected FADEC engine (Rotax 912iS) so there's no carbs.
 
Winter blend fuel decreasing rotax performance.
A few drops of water in the carb bowl. Drain the bowl or add some isopropyl fuel dryer.
I always run 100LL.
Well, it's not winter blend mogas, then. Had you been running E10, I suppose water in the gas wouldn't be a concern either.
Based on the resolution at post #96 in that thread, it seems after two years @EdFred merely disconnected the fitting and got static pressure from *inside* the tailcone and that fixed his airspeed indication problem?
Yeah, there was a cracked part; disconnecting it exposed the problem.
 
Your tachometer/sensor is giving a false reading so your engine is not making the power that you think it is?
 
I have a minor mystery of the universe on my hands. My airplane always flew at 120+ KTAS (120-126). Then one day, a few weeks ago, it began flying about 10 knots slower INDICATED and no one can figure out why. It's as if I'm now towing an open parachute while I fly. I have spoken to multiple A&Ps and everyone is stumped so I'm hoping maybe someone on here has a bright idea we haven't thought of.

As long as it's not against the rules here, I will send one $100 Starbucks or Amazon gift card (your choice) to whoever is the one who figures this out or prompts the question that figures this out! (Moderator: if this is against the rules, please just delete this section of my post rather than deleting the whole thing.)

It's a Rotax 912iS engine with about 500 hours SNEW, ground-adjustable prop, with Dynon SkyView D1000 Touch PFD and MFD. E-LSA (was S-LSA) low wing.

Same power setting, same RPM, same fuel, same altitudes, same weights.

At the bottom of this post is a table showing the before that I flew with for months after getting a new prop installed, and the after showing what I'm suddenly getting now and have been every day since it all started when we replaced the Dynon GPS antenna -- it had poor signal strength so we swapped it out for a new one. But we cannot identify any connection between replacing the GPS antenna and having the IAS being different.

The groundspeed is accurate -- I cross-compared it to the groundspeed my iPad and iPhone are showing so that's double verified.

The indicated airspeed showing on the PFD perfectly matches the standby airspeed indicator.

I just had a pitot test conducted and the $60,000 machine was pumping 120 knots into the pitot tube and my Dynon PFD was showing precisely 120 knots IAS. The pitot-static testing guy was also completely stumped by this mystery of how I have lost 10+ knots of airspeed. He did say while the pitot was perfect, I was registering a 200fpm leak on the static line, but for an unpressurized VFR-only airplane, it's meaningless.

Since I had a new prop installed a few months back, I also verified that the prop pitch didn't change (suspected not anyway because the RPMs were still all the same). Prop pitch is still exactly what it was when it was installed down to the tenth of a degree.

I thought maybe perhaps the engine is producing less horsepower despite the same RPM, but my A&P who is intimately familiar with Rotax says no.

EGTs are the same before and after.

I thought perhaps maybe I was always flying at these slower speeds and I was just seeing artificial speeds. But that can't be because my TAS was always accurate when I compared to the groundspeed and winds aloft, and my ETE times always bang on.

Next you might be thinking my winds aloft may have been inaccurate due to a calibration problem with my digital compass. But my ADAHRS primary and secondary were properly calibrated before this airspeed loss happened and while I was still flying at 120+ KTAS. So it couldn't be a compass calibration problem, either.

The only other thing changed was the rudder trim tab was given about 15 degrees more of angle to max it out as I was about half a ball out of coordination in cruise. That extra 15 degrees of deflection on the rudder trim tab got it a little better, but still about a quarter of a ball out when in cruise. YES, the extra rudder trim will add drag, but everyone I've talked to agrees there's no possible way it could cause 10 knots worth of drag and maybe just a knot or two. Is there anyone out there who thinks 15 or even 20 degrees of additional rudder trim angle could really slow the plane down by 10 knots? If so, I'd be very curious to hear your reasoning. The only reason we haven't bent it back the other way to test is because it's aluminum and if we bend it back and find it didn't bring the airspeed back, then we bend it BACK to how we had it, that will probably seriously weaken it and risk it snapping off. The rudder trim tab on my plane is already pretty aggressive. But the fact that I was flying at 120+ KTAS with it just ~15 degrees shy of it being maxed out makes me believe it's nearly impossible for just going ~15 degrees more to max it out equate to a 10 knot airspeed reduction.

Truly cannot figure this one out. Have spent many hours and hours and multiple sleepless nights racking my brain. I'd greatly appreciate any help as it just doesn't make any sense to anyone how an airplane can instantly lose so much airspeed.

Please hit me with every question you can think of so we can brainstorm this.

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Check your prop setting…

I had a similar issue on my Rotax after putting on a new Sensenich. Climbed like an angel but did not make the same speed.
S can send you the settings by email. Changing the setting solved my issue.
 
I used to be at a flight school with a Tecnam P2002 Sierra that was a very busy aircraft both flight training and rental. If an Instructor came back from a flight and reported the aircraft was not hands-off, feet on the floor in straight and level cruise flight it would have been investigated.

My experience with Tecnam aircraft tells me you have a much more series problem with the rigging. Maybe the nose gear caster is stiff or the flight controls have something amiss. Those are very light aircraft and it doesn't take much to really mess things up.

If the nose gear was stuck over in flight it would reduce your airspeed and give you cross control characteristics. Don't know the problem but, there is a problem with the aircraft that needs solved. Push down on the tail and another person exercise the nose gear caster. Sometimes the hardware is tightened to stop a shimmy problem so now it's sticking slightly sideways in flight. The Maintenance Manual will have a test for the right amount of force to move the nose wheel. +22 pounds of spring scale pull on a Grumman AA-1 or 5 nose wheel will do the same thing you're describing.
 
Check your prop setting…

I had a similar issue on my Rotax after putting on a new Sensenich. Climbed like an angel but did not make the same speed.
S can send you the settings by email. Changing the setting solved my issue.
I did extensive testing after the new prop was installed and was flying at 120+ KTAS afterwards. I checked the prop pitch a couple of days ago and it's exactly the same as it was when it was installed so no issues there.
 
Maybe the nose gear caster is stiff or the flight controls have something amiss. Those are very light aircraft and it doesn't take much to really mess things up.
If the nose gear was stuck over in flight it would reduce your airspeed and give you cross control characteristics. Don't know the problem but, there is a problem with the aircraft that needs solved. Push down on the tail and another person exercise the nose gear caster. Sometimes the hardware is tightened to stop a shimmy problem so now it's sticking slightly sideways in flight. The Maintenance Manual will have a test for the right amount of force to move the nose wheel. +22 pounds of spring scale pull on a Grumman AA-1 or 5 nose wheel will do the same thing you're describing.
Thanks, Klaus. Nothing has changed on the rigging before vs after the airspeed problem though. I did order a GoPro with suction cup mount and plan to verify the nose gear isn't flying askew. But it's unlikely to be a problem. As of now, my list of checks to perform still include:

1. Verify engine RPM with iPhone app.​
2. Verify prop RPM with TRUTACH II.​
3. Verify nose gear not flying askew with belly mounted GoPro.​
4. Confirm ECU is not suddenly wrongly configuring Eco Mode resulting in reduced power in cruise (I will test this today or tomorrow by going up to altitude where I can cruise at full throttle under 5500rpm so it's not in Eco Mode and confirm if the cruise speed matches what I had before this airspeed problem started).​
5. Perform exhaust pressure test to ensure no blockages in exhaust stream.​
6. Perform cylinder differential leak down test.​
7. Perform cranking compression check.

If all of the above comes back nominal, I'm out of ideas.​

Yes, we've established there's probably a rigging problem that needs to be resolved so the minor skid in cruise is rectified, but that condition pre-existed this airspeed problem so it is not the cause of the 10+ knot reduced airspeed problem. If anything, correcting that later will just give me even more speed.
 
If it’s a FADEC engine, does that mean max RPM is controlled by it? If so, then a blocked air filter or collapsing hose might not show up as a reduction in RPM and the FADEC is allowing the RPM to max out, albeit with less power output. EGT comparisons before and after might give a clue as to power generation differences.
 
If it’s a FADEC engine, does that mean max RPM is controlled by it? If so, then a blocked air filter or collapsing hose might not show up as a reduction in RPM and the FADEC is allowing the RPM to max out, albeit with less power output. EGT comparisons before and after might give a clue as to power generation differences.
Max RPM isn't controlled by the FADEC's ECU, but the ECU does control fuel flow when in Eco Mode. Eco Mode is entered when the throttle is pulled back to about 98 or 97%.

Engine air filter is new as of about three months ago and is always kept clean so unlikely it's that, also given no reduction in throttle response or RPM noted.

80% certain EGTs are the same as I remember looking at them recently, but going to verify on next flight by taking photos of the EGTs in cruise when leaned out in Eco Mode and compare to the old.
 
It's a castering nosewheel, so no steering linkage, nor are there any centering springs on the rudder pedals. It's a Tecnam Astore.

I noticed yesterday that to taxi straight on the ground, a good amount of right rudder is needed. Along with differential braking, of course. But shouldn't my pedals be neutral while taxi'ing? I could taxi straight with rudder pedals neutral, but it requires a lot more right brake pedal.

I won't be attempting to realign my rudder cables by myself -- my A&P will -- but does anyone know if this can be done from the point in the attached photo at the back of the rudder? Or must it be done at the point of the central pulleys (which happens to be in the most difficult to reach part of the plane)?

Again, still, this cannot be the source of the airspeed problem as this was a pre-existing condition when I was still flying faster.

Does prop rotate CW when viewed from behind? If so, prop wash spirals under the belly and presses on left side of tail, causing aircraft to turn left when power applied while taxing. Right rudder is needed to counteract that.

Could also be a draggy left brake.

Does nosewheel caster freely and without resistance when unloaded? If so, wind will straighten it and will not be a factor in airspeed. If castoring bearings are binding somehow, it could get stuck at an angle and add yaw or drag. Not uncommon with tailwheels.
 
Does prop rotate CW when viewed from behind? If so, prop wash spirals under the belly and presses on left side of tail, causing aircraft to turn left when power applied while taxing. Right rudder is needed to counteract that.
Could also be a draggy left brake.
Does nosewheel caster freely and without resistance when unloaded? If so, wind will straighten it and will not be a factor in airspeed. If castoring bearings are binding somehow, it could get stuck at an angle and add yaw or drag. Not uncommon with tailwheels.
Yes, Rotax rotates counterclockwise when viewed from in front of the plane, so behind the panel I'd see the prop turning clockwise.
Nosewheel casters freely but there is slight resistance. If I lift the front up from the prop so there's no weight on the nosewheel, it takes maybe a few pounds of pressure with my foot to turn it; it won't move with no pressure.
 
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One thing I just remembered, for whatever it's worth, is that on the last day my airplane was flying at 120+ KTAS, it was a night flight back home and the winds were the strongest I've ever experienced with this airplane: 80 knots at just 5,500' and 65 knot crosswind. I can't think of anything that could have been tweaked in cruise by that, but that was a unique variable that occurred on the last flight the plane was flying the speeds it should. Really wracking my brain for every clue.
 
The Nosewheel should have a preload specification. If you can easily push it around with your foot you might have found the problem. Watch this video.

 
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The Nosewheel should have a preload specification. If you can easily push it around with your foot you might have found the problem. Watch this video.

Jeff, interesting video, thanks! I’ll see what mine is doing as soon as the GoPro I ordered arrives. I guess “easily” is subjective though. Should I get one of those hanging baggage scales and hook it to the underside of my wheel pant, lift up on the prop to unload the weight, and then pull the wheel pant to one side and see how many pounds of force is registered to make the pull?
 
Here's a crazy idea. Do you still have the old GPS antenna you swapped out? If so, stick it back in and see if indications change.
 
One thing I just remembered, for whatever it's worth, is that on the last day my airplane was flying at 120+ KTAS, it was a night flight back home and the winds were the strongest I've ever experienced with this airplane: 80 knots at just 5,500' and 65 knot crosswind. I can't think of anything that could have been tweaked in cruise by that, but that was a unique variable that occurred on the last flight the plane was flying the speeds it should. Really wracking my brain for every clue.
The winds aloft don’t matter. Turbulence could have bent something but winds are irrelevant in flight.
 
Jeff, interesting video, thanks! I’ll see what mine is doing as soon as the GoPro I ordered arrives. I guess “easily” is subjective though. Should I get one of those hanging baggage scales and hook it to the underside of my wheel pant, lift up on the prop to unload the weight, and then pull the wheel pant to one side and see how many pounds of force is registered to make the pull?
Best to find out what the actual spec for your aircraft is and verify it falls within that range.
 
Best to find out what the actual spec for your aircraft is and verify it falls within that range.
This is what the maintinanece manual says:

The nose gear is a free-castoring type with a self-locking nut to provide the correct steering friction.The steerable assembly is entirely made in light alloy while the steering axle, nose gear welded assembly and shock absorber fitting are made in 4130 steel. An oleo-pneumatic shock absorber provides the adequate damping and reaction against ground loads. Nose gear steering angle is limited to 40° while the torque setting must be sufficient to guarantee that rotation with loads of less than 5kg/11lb applied on the wheel axle is not possible. This will avoid any shimmy hazard even if the NLG architecture and characteristic angles offer a shimmy proof design.

If I read that correctly, it should take 11 pounds of pressure to move the nose wheel in either direction when weight is lifted off it. I would say mine seems to be exactly that much and within spec, but I'd have to get a gauge to be sure it's exactly 11 lbs. Sounds like fixing it is easy though and if the nose wheel is flying askew, all I'd need to do is tighten one bolt slightly more.
 
Another section of the maintenance manual says 11-13 lbs. So I guess 13 pounds is the value I should use.
 

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Thought so. Had just mentioned it as scrapping the bottom of the barrel for ideas.
Don't be hasty, the bottom of the barrel might be salvageable. :)

Maybe you are not going slower. Maybe your D1000 unit of measure changed; previously displaying miles per hour and somewhere along the line got changed to knots per hour.

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With a fixed pitch prop, if you are at the same RPM you are making the same power. Is there a possibility that the pitch of your prop has changed? If not, and, your pitot system is good (you are actually flying slower) then you have a drag issue. If the issue was with the motor you would not get the same RPM (fixed pitch prop)
 
With a fixed pitch prop, if you are at the same RPM you are making the same power. Is there a possibility that the pitch of your prop has changed? If not, and, your pitot system is good (you are actually flying slower) then you have a drag issue. If the issue was with the motor you would not get the same RPM (fixed pitch prop)
Ground adjustable prop. Pitch verified unchanged. Pitot is good (static has a leak), but verified actually flying slower via TAS VIA GPS calculator. Drag issue was the very first thing I suspected when this speed drop first occurred, but I looked underneath and couldn't find an open parachute, haha.
 
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