Aircraft Paint Types

3393RP said:
A lot of R&D has gone into paint systems in recent years, and with proper prep work, a good looking durable result is assured.
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And it still can't compete with a Powder coated part.
 
3393RP said:
I don't disagree. Haven't seen an oven big enough for a Cessna, though. :D
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Ever see what powder coating does to 2024-T3, don't thing we will see a fully powder coated Cessna soon.But small iron parts like engine mounts, gear legs, rudder pedals, look really good

Fairchild Fuselage structures?
 

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JohnAJohnson said:
I considered a plane that had clear coat peeling/worn through, and the seller said it was fairly easy to retouch the clear coat. Is that true?
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When the painter was trying to sell me on a base/clear instead of a base only, the description on touching up the base/clear lasted about 5 times longer than for a single stage base.

I went with a simple base coat in Awgrip matterhorn white.
 
Nothing says "Geezer on board" better than metallic grey paint.

Well, OK. Not quite.

There is Geezer Gold metallic. Don't get behind that at a stoplight.
 
Paint, how quaint. Vinyl wrap is the way to go.
 
Witmo said:
Paint, how quaint. Vinyl wrap is the way to go.
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I think a base coat with vinyl trim is a great way to go. I've seen fully wrapped airplanes that didn't look good. Maybe it was just installation skill.

Also, water can get under vinyl and cause corrosion. I really want a layer of paint between the vinyl and skin.
 
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donjohnston said:
When the painter was trying to sell me on a base/clear instead of a base only, the description on touching up the base/clear lasted about 5 times longer than for a single stage base.

I went with a simple base coat in Awgrip matterhorn white.
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Don,
Touchups are one of the things I'm worried about with a base top coat. As much as I love the looks of metallic, I think I'll probably do the same as you. My painter (in Gulf Shores) also uses Awlgrip. Are you satisfied with the way it came out? Also, who did you use, and how long ago was it?
 
Witmo said:
Paint, how quaint. Vinyl wrap is the way to go.
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Friend did his RV-9A a few years ago. His was professionally done, looked ok, but had problems over the years. I believe Vinyl Wrap is a fad and paint is so much better in just about every way. But I agree with Kyle and think vinyl trim has a place.
 
If aluminum temp exceeds that of boiling water the heat treat is compromised. Powder coating temps are well above that. Also powder coating is great for hiding defects in the material it covers.
The guys at VAF seem to be obsessed with powder coating everything.
 
Paulie said:
If aluminum temp exceeds that of boiling water the heat treat is compromised. Powder coating temps are well above that. Also powder coating is great for hiding defects in the material it covers.
The guys at VAF seem to be obsessed with powder coating everything.
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Because the shine and protection is far superior to paint. My powder coating company says the lowest temp they can use is about 400 degrees, I understand there are other powders that bake at lower temps, just haven't seen any in use.
 
JohnAJohnson said:
Don,
Touchups are one of the things I'm worried about with a base top coat. As much as I love the looks of metallic, I think I'll probably do the same as you. My painter (in Gulf Shores) also uses Awlgrip. Are you satisfied with the way it came out? Also, who did you use, and how long ago was it?
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Painted one year ago. Looks great! Used a painter that the Velocity factory uses.
 
I’ve seen engine mounts that were power coated and looked great, but when they were stripped for crack inspection they were heavily corroded. The power coat was just floating above the metal, presumably a crack formed somewhere and let the environment in. Powder coat can hide some bad things. Like any other coating the application is critical.
 
Tom-D said:
The new era two part urethanes do not need a clear coat. They will polish very nicely.

You remove runs with a paint file, not sand paper. file them off level, and polish with a good glazing compound, you'll never see it.
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Not with SS metalics. It takes a certian talent to spray single stage metalic and get it slick, shiny, and streak free. Most shops today do not have a painter with that talent, therefore they must go with the base/clear system, which is easier to deal with, but requires more material=more weight added.
 
3393RP said:
It's easy to guess the age of cars manufactured around 1992-1994, especially silver ones. A lot of those owners experienced the fading and peeling just outside the warranty period, leaving them with an ugly and devalued vehicle.

That being said, the OP shouldn't be leery of a base-clear system. A lot of R&D has gone into paint systems in recent years, and with proper prep work, a good looking durable result is assured.
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That was more due to the reformulation of the paints, and substrates, used by the manufacturers in an effort to appease the EPA gods.
In the early years of that re formulation, they had not quite gotten it right and there you have the "peelers". It has to do with hard epoxy primers, and waterborne color coat, not being able to gain good adhesion to the primer. If you notice, the paint would come off in sheets, but the primer below would remain intact. I've repaired about a bazillion of those, in various colors, but mostly white ones.
 
I know that. The change to waterborne paints was implemented before the industry had a chance to properly test and assess the durability of the product.

The people whose vehicles peeled were just SOL.
 
Today I tried to find a can of ZincChromate primer, we could get it at several marine supply stores in the local area, Today no luck bought a $30.00 can of catalyzed primer.

pretty cool, you punch in a plunger at the bottom of the can, to activate. Then you have a pot life of 24 hours.
I used about 1/8th of it now must dispose of the rest. OH but chromate was bad for ya. How about this stuff in the land fills.
 
Witmo said:
Paint, how quaint. Vinyl wrap is the way to go.
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Depends...We did a bunch of testing with it on an F-16 and a C-130...test results were pretty blah. The vinyl ended up being more work overall vs. standard paint. Standard paints, in this application has a life of about 5 years. The vinyl wasn't doing well by the end of the test. It was estimated the life limit was about 20 months, if I remember correctly.
 
Is there any updates on this as to shops getting on board with Base/Clear instead of single stage?
 
drb930 said:
Is there any updates on this as to shops getting on board with Base/Clear instead of single stage?
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Imron from axalta remains as the standard. Many shops use jetglo due to cost. A smaller group uses awlgrip with a smaller group using genesis.

Imron has gone through a gazmillion formulations in aviation. Today, it’s improved a ton and remains the granddaddy of durability - though painting requires a bit more skill.

It is made in single stage (AF400), single stage for turboprops / high perf planes (af3500), and base coat clear coat (af700/af740). All imrons are similar-ish, with some differences in hardeners and anti-sag content.

In the auto world people have moved more to waterborne and better quality solvent paints, but commercial transportation paints are built for durability - 18 wheelers, boats and planes, since they sit out all day.

Akzo Nobel also has their own aerospace line - it’s ok.

My mooney was painted at the factory with base coat / clear coat - what a bunch of ridiculousness. The clear coat continues to peel. I’m tempted to strip it and paint it right- just havent had time.

My 172 is about to get painted with a combination of base coat / clear coat and single stage. Since the engine and Prop are coming back from overhaul, I’ll start painting parts while the plane is down and then do the rest.


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