1960's Piper 180.. Scrap Price or Part out?

i think the it reason that many people are telling you to get it in your name is that once its in your name its a very simple process. you sign the bill of sale and its done. if its in someone else name, even if everything is in order, it can take time and effort to get it through the FAA. a lot of buyers will be reluctant to buy because of that.

when i went through this process with my fathers aircraft, the FAA kicked back one of the packets, even though both were registered exactly the same. they wanted more documentation on one. I can only assume the two packages went to two different people and one wanted more paperwork.
 
If you get it transferred to your on name there will be sales tax to pay when you register it and capital gains tax to pay when you sell it. It’s part of an estate so the estate manager has authority to sell it. There are escrow companies that will handle the sale correctly for a few hundred dollars.
 
i think the it reason that many people are telling you to get it in your name is that once its in your name its a very simple process. you sign the bill of sale and its done. if its in someone else name, even if everything is in order, it can take time and effort to get it through the FAA. a lot of buyers will be reluctant to buy because of that.

when i went through this process with my fathers aircraft, the FAA kicked back one of the packets, even though both were registered exactly the same. they wanted more documentation on one. I can only assume the two packages went to two different people and one wanted more paperwork.

Called them again, all I need to fill out is the bill of sale 8050-2 a certain way that is it they are aware of its current titled status because they brought it up and the buyer has to fill out a aircraft reg 8050-1
 
Don’t f around. Just have an annual inspection done. That will tell you what you need to know. Tell them not to fix anything, just provide a list of airworthiness issues if there are any. The annual should include AD research. Then decide next steps.

Pre buy is not a thing. It means something different to every person. An annual tells you what must be done to make it airworthy and should not cost a lot more than a pre buy if done as I described.

Exactly this.

Even though some will want additional inspections prior to purchase, this annual will cost you a small amount (Compared to value) and will go a long ways to determine the value the aircraft. Sell it with any discrepancies open. A “pre-buy” Inspection by comparison is near worthless IMO.

While you are mechanically inclined, an experienced IA will have you miles ahead on its true condition. There are a lot of things in these old airplanes that look bad but are serviceable or vice versa.

Being in the southwest would make me feel pretty good about its time sitting.
 
Exactly this.

Even though some will want additional inspections prior to purchase, this annual will cost you a small amount (Compared to value) and will go a long ways to determine the value the aircraft. Sell it with any discrepancies open. A “pre-buy” Inspection by comparison is near worthless IMO.

While you are mechanically inclined, an experienced IA will have you miles ahead on its true condition. There are a lot of things in these old airplanes that look bad but are serviceable or vice versa.

Being in the southwest would make me feel pretty good about its time sitting.
Have an IA do a prebuy/annual inspection.

When we would do an inspection for pre-purchase, we would pick the pepper out of the fly poop looking for every and any negotiating point. Then if the customer closed the deal and we were paid to address the airworthiness issues, we would sign off a fresh annual inspection.
 
An IA is not blessing the aircraft to be airworthy for another 12 months... An annual inspection is saying that "On this day... everything from the day the aircraft was first flown, up to today, is complete, correct, airworthy, including the records and log books."

If you have good records and the previous inspectors and mechanics have been doing a good job of signing off the work performed,,,
...and the previous owners were responsible about keeping up on the new issues and addressing them (and documenting them), that goes a long way to having a valuable machine.
 
Have an IA do a prebuy/annual inspection.

When we would do an inspection for pre-purchase, we would pick the pepper out of the fly poop looking for every and any negotiating point. Then if the customer closed the deal and we were paid to address the airworthiness issues, we would sign off a fresh annual inspection.

I’m not sure that makes sense from the sellers perspective though. He has an airplane he acquired, the airplane is of unknown quality to the seller. He needs to find out what he has on his hands in order to sell it at an appropriate price.

He doesn’t have to get any squawks addressed in that annual if he chooses not to. If the annual comes back clean or he addresses squawks, he’ll have a logbook sign off, saying the aircraft was found to be airworthy as of that day. The value of the aircraft will increase tremendously.

A pre-buy will not do that for him. Nor is a pre-buy much of a selling point. As we already know, there Is no set definition of a pre-buy as compared to an annual.
 
Keep it or sell it. Don't scrap it, sell it as-where-is or get an annual and it'll be airworthy in the eyes of the FAA.

Selling an airplane with a current annual is a lot easier than one without and you'll get more money unless there is an unknown mess. A buyer can get a test flight for one.

Forget the pre-buy. The eventual buyer will want to do their own anyways.

Forget the registration issues. If it is as you describe, it's a nothingburger.

If OP doesn't want the hassle of getting it airworthy and wants to sell it as-where-is as a project for somebody, answer the questions about the panel and corrosion. And you'll likely get an offer well above the scrap value. I'd probably make an offer myself.
 
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There are plenty of pilots that look for barn find airplanes,put it on the market,you will get plenty of people who will try to buy it with a lowball offer. On the other hand you should get some serious offers.
 
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Front 2 Cylinder Bores, 1 Had Rust @ TDC Area..... Panel Pictures Coming
 

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Oil Filter from Oil change 2 weeks prior to flight 350.6 Hours

its a shame, it just got a new engine mount, carb, exhaust, starter. last couple years all the hoses look brand new super clean it a baby
 
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A Prebuy is a -100 hour - is an annual.... all pretty much the same.
Of course it all depends on the inspector and the previous log book entries.

My suggestion for getting a pre-buy above was just so that the seller knows what he has and what another inspector is going to find...
 
so this is minimal+ rust for these sitting? I know other types of applications its generally acceptable (marine/auto). I need to check the back cylinders here soon
 

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Appears to be light surface rust. Further down the bore, it looks like some has been 'polished' stain and there is no deep pitting. The visible rust area that you are seeing is up top beyond the travel of the top piston ring travel.
Rust isn't great to see, but what are you going to do....
It needs to be flown regularly, not run, but flown. A minimum 1 hour flight is recommended to heat the oil sufficiently to maintain the oil. Same with a car. Can't just go out and idle a car once a week, it needs to be taken on a trip.

Is there an air compressor in the hangar? How about a differential compression tester?
Do you know how to perform the test? (be careful, it has been known to bite the uninitiated)1713105822298.png
 
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Im sorry for your loss. Im sure its tough selling something that was very valuable to your dad.
 
Appears to be light surface rust. Further down the bore, it looks like some has been 'polished' stain and there is no deep pitting. The visible rust area that you are seeing is up top beyond the travel of the top piston ring travel.
Rust isn't great to see, but what are you going to do....
It needs to be flown regularly, not run, but flown. A minimum 1 hour flight is recommended to heat the oil sufficiently to maintain the oil. Same with a car. Can't just go out and idle a car once a week, it needs to be taken on a trip.

Is there an air compressor in the hangar? How about a differential compression tester?
Do you know how to perform the test? (be careful, it has been known to bite the uninitiated)View attachment 127824
yes I have a aircraft branded compression tester (aircraft tool supply I think) in addition to my 2-3 automotive compression testers I'v bought over the years (not including my fuel system ones lol)

Specifically for a aircraft no I don't know how to perform the test not going to sit here and compare it to other applications Iv been certified in

Im sorry for your loss. Im sure its tough selling something that was very valuable to your dad.

Thank you, I dont want to sell it but it can't continue to sit either and it would be a disservice to him and the plane to eventually fall into a bad/worse state plus I need to get rid of the property one can only keep so much stuff up
 
If you get it transferred to your on name there will be sales tax to pay when you register it and capital gains tax to pay when you sell it. It’s part of an estate so the estate manager has authority to sell it. There are escrow companies that will handle the sale correctly for a few hundred dollars.
That will depend on your state. My state does not tax aircraft.

I agree with using an Escrow company. I have used AeroSpace Reports twice and it has been smooth transactions.
 
yes I have a aircraft branded compression tester (aircraft tool supply I think) in addition to my 2-3 automotive compression testers I'v bought over the years (not including my fuel system ones lol)

Specifically for a aircraft no I don't know how to perform the test not going to sit here and compare it to other applications Iv been certified in
Not too hard per se
Remove all sparks (if you drop them, throw them away, get a new one)
Screw in the adapter
Turn propeller in the direction of rotation to bring piston TDC Compression stroke
STAY CLEAR OF THE PROPELLER as it may move briskly
Attach tester and add 20 psig... then with a solid grip, move the propeller to find (est) the real TDC, you'll feel it, split the difference.
STAY CLEAR OF THE PROPELLER
Slowly add air pressure until the primary gauge reaches 80 PSIG,
STAY CLEAR of the propeller until you slowly turn the regulator back down to 0 psig
read/record the results.
1) xx/80 2) xx/80 3) xx/80 4) xx/80
NEXT
 
I dont want to sell it but it can't continue to sit either and it would be a disservice to him and the plane to eventually fall into a bad/worse state plus I need to get rid of the property one can only keep so much stuff up
FYI: If you've made the decision to sell it, you may be better served to find an experienced A&P to help you review the aircraft for potential issues that may affect the sale. Not a pre-buy but someone who can direct you to the points you should know about as a seller.
 
I am hopeful he can engage the mechanic that performed the upgrades mentioned above. That person would know the aircraft and be a valuable resource.
 
1967 Piper Cher 180, Engine has a SBOH of 340 on it, has been sitting for 2-3 years I recently got it due to death in the family, was flown a week or 2 before death just had a brand new complete carb kit, oil change and plugs right before last flight. It has the 360-a4a lycoming in it, would like some advice how to proceed at this point, it has been on a 2 gallon engine dehydrator the whole time (dried them out) and it has been inside a insulated hanger people are bum rushing to buy it for scrap

Options here, btw I have a borescope I was planning on looking @ cylinder walls with it atleast in the next couple days will provide pictures

SBOH really doesn’t mean anything other than an IRAN was done.

You already own the airplane. Take a look. Have a mechanic pull a cylinder if you want to see the cams. After that, change the oil and fly it, monitor the oil sample and filter.

Flying it 100 hours with positive oil sample reports will prove the engine and increase the sales price 30-40k if you’re looking to sell.

Where is it? Do you want to sell?
 
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