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I use a Snapon BK5600 all the time. Dual camera is nice. I see that there are many on Amazon that are similar, but without the Snapon price. Also have a full blown two way articulating flexible unit for hot section inspections. They have sure come down in price from the old Olympus I used to use.

https://mailchi.mp/aircraft-tool/deal-of-the-day?e=18816b98bc

Hmmm. Another Cherokee with starting issues. Don't things travel in threes? Lol

Funny how you run across something out of the blue that is relevant elsewhere in your life. I'm not saying it is 'the tool to use', but could help. Use at your own risk.

1966 Piper. Old and worn wiring and parts. Possible aluminum wiring. What could possibly go wrong? Lol Got to love old airplanes. Dan is spot on.

Yep. I remember when TC started bringing in ex cops and RCMP (2010'ish). They knew how to "interview" and find "the smoking gun" mistake in a logbook. Fun times! :rolleyes:

Yep. Shake well. Sit in hot water for 10 mins. Shake again. Spray. Works much better, but you will still get the odd dude can. Tempo prop paint is backordered in alot of places. Anyone find some? I am looking for Hartzell grey and flat black.

None are acceptable. https://www.cherryaerospace.com/docs/catalogs/CA-1013.pdf

My dad could sharpen drill bits fast and accurately by hand well into his 80's. That is a skill I definitely do not have. I have used the drill doctor with varying degrees of success.

The turbines I work on never get an oil change. Good old PT6's!

Lots of snafus going on. I guess paint was the final straw for the OP. Welcome to aviation! "I don't like to pester mx. So I pestered mx."! I don't miss working on private aircraft. :rolleyes: PS The private aircraft I don't mind. It's the owners that makes life special! :D

Check the main air hose and the carb heat hose. They are not supposed to be plain SCAT. The inside liner can and does work free and may obstruct airflow to the carb. The proper hoses are a bit expensive, but they work and last much better. I had a customer with old SCAT and I had him replace...

Now look to the induction system as was mentioned. Couplings, gaskets, air box, etc.

Start simple. Could it be an indication issue? Swap probes with opposite and see if problem continues.

That is very true. My statements were more of general guidelines. There will always be exceptions to the rule! In the end, FOLLOW THE MANUAL! :)

Lines = neutral (0 degrees relative to elevator). Set to neutral and do preflight. Tab should be even(ish) with elevator. If not, something is amiss. Takeoff range = thick line/bar/whatever you want to call it. Should be slightly tab down in this area.

Streamlined elevator and streamlined tab = neutral (0 degrees). Indicator should = 0. If not, adjust it to make it so. "Neutral is neutral". The stab may have a + or - angle of attack relative to the airframe, but that shouldn't matter 99% of the time. To check the stab, you usually have to...

What a good crimp from a good crimper looks like. http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/CrimpTools/crimptools.html Anatomy of a good terminal crimp. http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/terminal.pdf I have used the Amp Procrimper for years. Great for one handed operation while upside down under...

If there are no fluid leaks, you don't need a complete reseal job. The nitrogen charge is leaking out via the Schrader valve or the valve body. The nitrogen charge sits on top of the fluid. Pipers are known for this. Get new aluminum washers and 'H' rated Schrader valves. Remove body and clean...

Older Piper parts manuals had lots of vendor numbers. Pretty much gone now. Makes a big difference in sourcing parts for oldies. Beech Communiques can be a life saver. Lots of information buried in there.