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Jeff, interesting video, thanks! I’ll see what mine is doing as soon as the GoPro I ordered arrives. I guess “easily” is subjective though. Should I get one of those hanging baggage scales and hook it to the underside of my wheel pant, lift up on the prop to unload the weight, and then pull the...

One thing I just remembered, for whatever it's worth, is that on the last day my airplane was flying at 120+ KTAS, it was a night flight back home and the winds were the strongest I've ever experienced with this airplane: 80 knots at just 5,500' and 65 knot crosswind. I can't think of anything...

Yes, Rotax rotates counterclockwise when viewed from in front of the plane, so behind the panel I'd see the prop turning clockwise. Nosewheel casters freely but there is slight resistance. If I lift the front up from the prop so there's no weight on the nosewheel, it takes maybe a few pounds of...

I actually tried this before yesterday's test flight and yesterday's test flight resulted in zero change to airspeed.

Max RPM isn't controlled by the FADEC's ECU, but the ECU does control fuel flow when in Eco Mode. Eco Mode is entered when the throttle is pulled back to about 98 or 97%. Engine air filter is new as of about three months ago and is always kept clean so unlikely it's that, also given no...

Thanks, Klaus. Nothing has changed on the rigging before vs after the airspeed problem though. I did order a GoPro with suction cup mount and plan to verify the nose gear isn't flying askew. But it's unlikely to be a problem. As of now, my list of checks to perform still include: 1. Verify...

I did extensive testing after the new prop was installed and was flying at 120+ KTAS afterwards. I checked the prop pitch a couple of days ago and it's exactly the same as it was when it was installed so no issues there.

Brad, wouldn't something like a blocked engine air filter result in reduced RPM? I'm not seeing any reduction in RPM nor throttle response. It's a fuel injected FADEC engine (Rotax 912iS) so there's no carbs.

Thanks for the dig. We almost made it a whole 100 posts in this thread before the first dig! Again, the airplane apparently wasn't flying straight before when I had 10+ knots greater airspeed so I'd like to focus on that problem only after solving the reduction in airspeed problem because the...

My static source is a static tube mounted directly below the pitot tube under the LH wing. I have traced the static line from the standby ASI and standby altimeter all the way to where it exits the fuselage into the wing and could not detect any anomalies in that section of the line, nor any...

It's a castering nosewheel, so no steering linkage, nor are there any centering springs on the rudder pedals. It's a Tecnam Astore. I noticed yesterday that to taxi straight on the ground, a good amount of right rudder is needed. Along with differential braking, of course. But shouldn't my...

I always run 100LL. Thanks for the link. Just read the whole thing. Based on the resolution at post #96 in that thread, it seems after two years @EdFred merely disconnected the fitting and got static pressure from *inside* the tailcone and that fixed his airspeed indication problem...

Thanks! I will buy a laser tachometer and verify the prop RPM is correct and no gearbox slipping.

Not sure I follow. My airplane only has electronic elevator trim. Rudder trim and aileron trim is a manual trim tab. How will using manual inputs tell me exactly how much I need to bend the trim tabs once on the ground?

With the TAS VIA GPS Calculator, I think we've not established that it's not an indication error and I actually am flying slower. I haven't verified my tachometer, but I am very attuned to what it always sounds like and I can tell if it's just 200 rpm off by sound. My CFI used to play a game...

I'm confident the digital ball isn't out of whack because I know what the horizon looks like when the plane is coordinated and how it feels and when the ball is centered, all my senses check.

I meant without manual input, lol. More rudder trim to push the rudder right more, right?

It's potentially what's causing the half a ball out, but can't be what's slowing me down 10 knots because the wing low and half a ball out condition existed when I was showing 120+ KTAS on the panel.

My A&P checked the exhaust a few days again and even noticed a minor exhaust leak where the muffler connects and corrected that.

Okay, so: 1) How do I correct the flying in a slip condition? 2) The airspeed question still persists given the slip condition existed when I was flying at the higher airspeeds so that can't be causing the airspeed loss problem I posted about.